March
29, 2006
1997
Brunello, Super Tuscans, Barolo...
In This Issue
A Note from Sergio
Whenever I attend a tasting, I'm reminded of the substantial
difference between the modern way of sampling wine and the
way I was taught.
Here in America, tastings are all the rage; most people,
enthusiasts or not, have attended at least one. The big
industry-sponsored events take place in cold, vast rooms
packed with purple-lipped masses lining up for their turn
to expel the 250th gulp of the day into the communal spittoon.
The participants pack their notebooks with pages full of
observations and judgments. "A tannic monster, clumsy
and bitter." "Tremendous dimension, supple and
full-bodied, with a terrific fleshy finish." "Oak,
clove cigarette, rich hints of concentrated pineapple juice
and Egyptian musk, high drinkability." They're determined
to master as many wines as they can, to stumble out of the
auditorium accomplished oenophiles, able to size up a wine
within seconds and move on to the next one.
Needless to say, I try not to attend those gatherings.
Sometimes I'll make my way to an educational tasting, which
tends to be more civilized: you sit at a table with a few
glasses in front of you and some food on a plate, and you
can breathe as you drink the wine. You have space and time
to reflect on what you're consuming. Maybe you learn a little
bit of history.
But ultimately, I understand a wine best when I drink it
the way I was taught: at the table with my friends and family.
In my home, wine isn't doled out gingerly or swirled and
spat. We don't analyze its mid-palate. Wine isn't reserved
for people over the age of 21 or haughty connoisseurs, for
people with deep pockets or a vast knowledge of varietals.
It's for everyone, all the time. It's part of Italian culture
and it is my culture. A glass of wine doesn't stir up our
insecurities or competitive natures. Its presence brings
joy, not anxiety. What I have learned from growing up in
Italy and what I learn anew every time I return is that
you can comprehend a wine much more fully simply by restraining
yourself from judging it; just drink it. I guarantee you'll
find what you're looking for if you don't look so hard.
This week, I'm offering a group of wines that are often
poured at tastings: those from 1997, the most highly sought
Italian vintage of its decade. If you want to get a real
sense of these fantastic, hard-to-find wines, drink them
as they were meant to be drunk: cancel your evening appointments,
put out a plate of salumi and cheese, sit back with people
you care about, and simply enjoy yourself.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
To share IWM with another enthusiast, just click the Tell-A-Friend
link below!
Tell a Friend about IWM!
1997 Barbaresco and Langhe Rosso
Roagna
– I Paglieri 1997 Barbaresco Pajé $44.95*
Four generations of the Roagna family have crafted wines at
the I Paglieri estate. Today, Alfredo Roagna runs the winery
with the help of his wife Luigina and son Luca. Roagna adheres
to an ultra-traditional style of winemaking, concentrating
on the varietal character and terroir, and offering his products
at reasonable prices. This classic Barbaresco from the Pajé
site exemplifies the estate style in the way it firmly conveys
the singular character of the Nebbiolo grape. Equally important
is the way that the vineyard brings out macho tannins yet
also shares in the finesse found in Asili and Rabajà.
Roagna
– I Paglieri 1997 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé
$59.95*
È l’espressione massima della nostra cantina,
è tradizione allo stato puro—“It is the
greatest expression of our estate, it is tradition in its
purest form,” is the Roagnas’ description of
their Barbaresco Crichët Pajé. The wine was
created when Roagna sought to design a wine that went a
step beyond the excellence of the riserva. This superlative
bottling is made only in the best vintages—on average,
just one or two years in a decade will meet Roagna’s
strict standards—and production is limited to 400
cases. The huge, strong tannins imposed by the Pajé
vineyard epitomize the traditional, age worthy expression
of Nebbiolo. The wine’s character and structure are
nurtured by its unusually long 75-day maceration—a
process that prepares it to age for decades to come.
Gaja
1997 Sorì San Lorenzo $1,195.00 (1.5L)*
Perhaps the most influential individual in Italian wines
over the last 30 years has been Angelo Gaja. In a relentless
pursuit to show off the best of Italy's cellars, Angelo
has canvassed the globe, and his exhaustive, door-to-door
campaign has been a raging success. The world now knows
the greatness of Barbaresco and Barolo, especially those
bottles with his simple, black-and-white label: the Gaja
name embodies world-class quality. From grapes grown in
the Secondine vineyard on the sorì (south-facing
hillside) named for the patron saint of Alba. Of Gaja's
three cru Barbarescos (now actually IGT wines since he adds
a drop of Barbera), this is the most concentrated and powerful,
providing exceptional aging potential. Fresh, spicy layers
of intense dark fruit sink deep into the palate. Strong
tannins are in excellent balance with an acidic dart, running
far into the commanding finish.
Gaja
1997 Sperss $149.00 (375ml)
The name means “nostalgia” in local dialect
and refers to a particular vineyard in the Marenca-Rivetta
site in Serralunga where the Gaja family had purchased grapes
until 1961. It was at this point that the family began producing
wines exclusively from their own vineyards, and a series
of changes began to unfold that would have a profound impact
on Piemonte wines. As the estate grew and developed, Angelo
coveted the top-quality fruit they had found here before
and bought the plot in 1988. As with his other wines, he
wished to improve poor vintages and in 1996 began adding
6% Barbera to the Nebbiolo, forfeiting the Barolo designation
in order to create the product he had envisioned. Huge,
classic Barolo characteristics. Exploding with flavor. Uncommon
complexity and stature, with full body, firm tannins, and
the stern overlying countenance typical of Serralunga wines.
Gaja
1997 Darmagi $108.24 (375ml)
Meaning “what a pity” in the Piemontese dialect,
“Darmagi” is what Angelo’s grandfather
sighed every time he passed the hillside vineyard where
Angelo ripped out old Nebbiolo vines and replaced them with
the internationally acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon. But Angelo’s
gamble worked... again! Cabernet Sauvignon (95%), Merlot
(3%), and Cabernet Franc (2%). Concentrated on the nose
and palate, with expansive and complex layers. This beautiful
wine marries the eminent terroir of Piemonte with the distinct
personalities of the international grapes. Velvety tannins
and a persistent finish.
Click
for more Olympic wines of Piemonte!
1997 Barolo
Aldo
Conterno 1997 Barolo ‘Bussia Soprana’ $67.50*
For more than five generations the Conterno family has taken
on the unstable conditions of the Langhe hills, becoming a
staple in the heritage of Piemonte Barolo. In the early sixties,
Aldo and his brother, the late Giovanni Conterno, worked with
their father at the Giacomo Conterno estate to create some
of the most long-lived and highly regarded Barolos. However,
with a split in views over the styles of Barolo, Aldo left
the unwavering traditionalist Giovanni at their father's cellar
in 1969 and founded the "Favot" cellar. From Bussia
Soprana in Monforte d'Alba. Three years in Slavonian oak are
followed by twelve months in bottle before release. Classic
floral aromas lead into a full-bodied palate.
Aldo
Conterno 1997 Barolo ‘Cicala’ $119.00*
Aldo’s second “cru” from Bussia Soprana.
Following the same aging program as the Barolo ‘Bussia
Soprana,’ this is the most tannic of Aldo’s
three cru Barolos. The potent nose sings with signature
Nebbiolo flavors of dried roses, underbrush, lead, and cherries.
Thickly textured with layered complexity.
Aldo
Conterno 1997 Barolo Riserva Granbussia $187.50*
Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino Riserva and Aldo Conterno’s
Granbussia Riserva are perhaps the two greatest examples
of Barolo produced. This is the estate’s special reserve
bottling, produced only in great vintages. The grapes are
selected from the prime Bussia plots of Cicala (15%), Colonnello
(15%), and Romirasco (70%). Aged three years in Slavonian
oak casks and another 1 1/2 years in stainless steel tanks
before resting in bottle for another year. This is truly
wine of patience, meriting another 10-20 years of cellaring.
Paolo
Conterno 1997 Barolo ‘Ginestra’ $115.14
Paolo Conterno founded this estate in the Monforte area
of Barolo in 1886; today his grandson, also named Paolo,
leads the way with a team that includes his wife, Caterina,
and their two children, Marisa and Giorgio. With seven hectares
planted to Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto in the celebrated
Ginestra cru, the estate regularly presents elegant wines
of great structure that have excellent aging potential.
Under the sage advice of Beppe Caviola, the family enthusiastically
pursues relatively traditional methods that produce classic
Barolo, yet they also introduce a kiss of French oak to
most bottlings. Traditional Barolo at its best: full on
the palate with chewy tannins supporting spicy berry fruit.
A persistent finish concludes this excellently structured
wine.
Roagna
– I Paglieri 1997 Barolo La Rocca e la Pira $44.95*
See Roagna's Barbaresco for more on this estate. Roagna’s
Barolo La Rocca e la Pira is an expression of the historic
Pira vineyard (once known as Rocca) in Rocche di Castiglione
Falletto. The estate’s stalwart focus on the expression
of the Nebbiolo and the terroir shines through in this wine,
with substantial vanilla tannins and a rich bouquet.
Mascarello
1997 Barolo $189.95 (1.5L)
Bartolo Mascarello, who passed away last year, had a great
passion for the preservation of Barolo’s historic
past, which emphasizes the flavors of the local land. He
always made his wine the same way, through techniques that
go back centuries and which were inherited when he was an
apprentice under his father, Giulio, one of the true icons
of Barolo. Like his father, Bartolo instilled these same
values and techniques in the next generation, his daughter
Maria Teresa, who now carries on the artisan’s craft
and represents the future of Barolo’s Old School.
Mascarello's wine is a blend from just five hectares in
La Morra’s historic and prestigious vineyards of Cannubi,
San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche. The approach is simple: low
yields and ripe fruit from Barolo’s best vines, blended
for consistent quality and style. The result is a line of
consistent, gorgeous, harmonious wines that can stand the
test of time—the acidity and tannins of this Barolo
are firmly braced by noble structure and exquisite balance.
Sandrone
1997 Barolo ‘Cannubi Boschis’ $174.50*
Luciano Sandrone is often labeled a modernist because he
opts for shorter macerations, the use of some new oak, and
shorter aging requirements for his wines. However, that
is only half the equation. Here, the craftsman respects
tradition and only incorporates aspects of modern technology
and technique to showcase the utmost potential of his precious
grapes. His magical juice does not rely on 225-liter barriques
for style: he prefers the 500-liter tonneaux. Luciano’s
training comes from a traditional background at the historic
Marchesi di Barolo estate. Now his boutique-style winery
with choice plot locations produces some of the richest,
most polished Barolos in the region. Sandrone's only single-
vineyard bottling, coming from a five-acre site on the majestic
Cannubi Boschis hill, is one of Barolo's most prized modern
wines. A well-defined bouquet and palate. Full-bodied and
creamy; the mild acidity and gentle tannins glide right
into the long finish.
Click
for a historic offering of 1996 Piemonte!
1997 Brunello di Montalcino
Valdicava
1997 Brunello Ris ‘Madonna del Piano’ $135.00*
In his youth Vincenzo Abbruzzese spent summers working at
his grandparents’ winery in northern Montalcino. When
his grandfather announced the intention to sell Valdicava
in 1987 Vincenzo opened his eyes to a new future and left
his studies in Florence. The property was pleading for drastic
improvements and the young man had hardly any capital of his
own; but he was a dedicated worker and promptly began a series
of improvements that would shape Valdicava into the top quality
winery he envisioned. With just 10 hectares in the coldest
part of the Brunello zone, he is probably the most exacting
grower in the area, managing vegetation so that each grape
will enjoy the perfect amount of sun and mercilessly expunging
tightly packed grapes to avoid rot and diseases. Abbruzzese’s
wines are lush, rich, and concentrated, with effortless balance
that lingers on the long finish. This Riserva comes from the
Madonna del Piano vineyard in Montalcino’s northern
Montosoli zone.
Caparzo
1997 Brunello di Montalcino ‘La Casa’ $94.46*
(limited availability)
The vineyards and cellars of Tenuta Caparzo were established
in the 1960s, but progressive adaptation has continued through
the decades. The estate currently experiments with innovative
cultivation systems and several clones under the management
of Sante Turone. The estate has always focused obsessively
on terroir, acquiring multiple plots totaling 190 hectares,
85 of them vineyards. Five hectares of Brunello (Sangiovese
Grosso) in Montosoli yield this cru bottling with a structure
ideal for long and rewarding aging. A true collector’s
Brunello, the 1997 vintage was aged for 12 months in French
barriques, 18 months in large French oak barrels, and 15
months in bottles. Dry and warm on the palate, the breadth,
balance, and persistence of this wine are evident.
Uccelliera
1997 Brunello di Montalcino $98.98*
Azienda Agricola Uccelliera has sat above the Aviary farmland
since the 11th century. Purchased in 1986 when Andrea Cortonesi
chose to transform the land into a vineyard with wine cellar,
this estate has continuously improved the quality of its
production. A high density of vines covers just six hectares.
Named for the hills for which it lies on, Uccelliera is
located in southeastern Montalcino (click for map). The
primary focus is Brunello, although several other noteworthy
wines are produced at this estate including a Rosso di Montalcino
and the Super Tuscan Rapace. Cortonesi’s Brunello
di Montalcino is well structured and balanced, and he successfully
shows the true nature of the land when working with Sangiovese.
Col
d’Orcia 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $79.97*
In 1933 the First Exhibition of Italian Wine saw three vintages
of Brunello from this land with the estate name Fattoria
di Sant’Angelo in Colle. The estate adopted its new
name in 1973 under the ownership of Count Alberto Marone
Cinzano (of the famous Cinzano vermouth family). Count Francesco
Marone Cinzano is the current president of the organization,
and Edoardo Virano governs production with the help of in-house
enologist Pablo Härri and consultant Maurizio Castelli.
Col d’Orcia covers 540 hectares in Montalcino, of
which 142 are planted to vines. As well as producing outstanding
wines, the estate is constantly involved in research to
optimize the quality of the fruit they grow. The resulting
discoveries feed further developments in their Brunello,
Rosso, and Moscadello di Montalcino, Super Tuscans, Sant’Antimo,
and Chianti. This dense, low acid bottling shows a more
delicate and approachable side of Brunello.
Il
Poggione 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $98.50*
The Franceschi family has owned the estate’s 100 hectares
of prime vineyards around the historic village of Sant’Angelo
since 1890, but the vines only began to live up to their
full potential in 1958, when Leopoldo Franceschi enlisted
Romanian agricultural expert Pierluigi Talenti. Over the
next 40 years, beginning with the 1965 release, Il Poggione
became synonymous with classic, elegant, powerful Brunello.
Though Talenti passed away in 1999, Fabrizio Bindocci—who
spent more than two decades at Talenti’s side—carries
on the tradition of excellence. The Riserva is created only
in top vintages from a choice selection of grapes and is
consistently one of the finest wines of its genre. This
full-bodied Brunello is youthful and powerful, displaying
layers of dark fruit and spice that are supported by bright
acidity and chewy tannins. Over time, this cellar staple
will prove its elegance.
Click
for 2001 Brunello di Montalcino!
Collectible 1997 Super Tuscans
Antinori
1997 Solaia $433.62*
Antinori 1997 Solaia $899.90 (1.5L)*
Where Sassicaia opened the door for Italian wine, Marchese
Piero Antinori, with the guidance of Giacomo Tachis, kicked
it down with the introduction of Tignanello in 1971, Solaia
in 1978, and Guado al Tasso in 1990. Solaia competes as Italy’s
most prestigious blend and is the flagship wine of her most
celebrated producer. The golden child of Piero Antinori and
esteemed enologist Giacomo Tachis, whose magic touch has graced
Italy’s most elite Super Tuscans (Sassicaia, Tignanello,
Sammarco, Argiano among others), the wine started in 1978
as a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and grew
in 1982 to include Sangiovese. The grapes used to make this
“sunny one” are grown exclusively in the vineyard
of the same name, a highly desirable 10 hectare patch of land
on the Tignanello estate, which is also home to the eponymous
wine.
Antinori
1997 Guado al Tasso $116.12* (limited availability)
As with Angelo Gaja’s Ca’ Marcanda effort in
the mid- nineties, it was only a matter of time before this
legendary producer found a home for a red blend on the pioneering
soil of Bolgheri. He is in good company here with both his
uncle’s legendary Tenuta San Guido estate and his
brother’s Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, which is still
pouring out the most sought-after Merlot (Masseto) in all
of Italy. Greatness clearly flows in this man’s blood,
and the soils of Bolgheri are a natural breeding ground
for Antinori success. The Guado al Tasso estate, or “Badger’s
Ford,” is located in the Bolgheri zone. It has been
in the family since the early thirties but did not become
a center of activity until the 1990 debut of its title wine.
This blend is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and rounded
out by 30% Merlot and now 10% Syrah, resulting in a rich
color and a delightful balance of structure and softness
on the palate.
Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia 1997 Ornellaia $250.00*
Along with Tenuta San Guido, Le Macchiole, and Grattamacco,
Ornellaia is one of the four pillars of the great Bolgheri
Super Tuscan movement. Brother to Piero Antinori and cousin
to Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta of Sassicaia, Lodovico
Antinori left his family in the seventies to start his own
winery with an emphasis on Cabernet and Merlot. Like the
neighboring Marchese Mario Incisa, Lodovico believed that
the steep, south-facing coastal slopes of this zone were
a calling card for great claret-style wines. However, Lodovico
did not just look to Bordeaux or Sassicaia for inspiration.
He quickly acquainted himself with Andre Tchelistcheff,
one of the fathers of California Cabernet, as well as Bordeaux’s
leading enologist, Michel Rolland. With the team and plantings
in place it wasn’t long before a space-age wine facility
was built to produce the highest quality wines of Italy.
Since its debut in 1985, the estate’s signature wine
continues to demonstrate excellence. This weighty Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot blend with a splash of Cabernet Franc
displays great complexity and a broad spectrum of flavors
that make it one of the most elegant Super Tuscans. The
intense layers of flavor are structured by medium acidity,
moderate tannins, and warm alcohol.
Tenuta
dell’Ornellaia 1997 Masseto $481.25*
Lodovico Antinori’s Ornellaia may have been the breakout
for the estate, but the Masseto remains its crowning achievement!
In fact, Masseto has the distinction of being Toscana’s
most widely sought wine, and the historic 1997 vintage is
a trophy for any collector. With Andre's guidance and persistence,
Lodovico established a plot dedicated to the noble Merlot.
The unique spot contains a blend of three clays in the soil
and its own distinct microclimate with similarities akin
to Pomerol.
Click
for Sassicaia, the Super Tuscan Pioneer!
More 1997 Super Tuscans
San
Giusto a Rentennano 1997 Percarlo $199.95*
The estate of San Giusto a Rentennano covers 30.5 hectares
planted to vines, where the family practices organic agriculture.
Elisabetta Martini di Cigala manages the business end of things
while her brothers Francesco and Luca care for the vineyards
and craft the wines with the guidance of enologist Attilio
Pagli. Percarlo is a pure Sangiovese Super Tuscan that exploits
the full potential of the region’s signature grape.
The secret behind Francesco and Luca’s wine is the terroir
– the Percarlo, named for a family friend who died tragically,
is a cuvee of grapes from six different vineyards located
in the southern portion of the Chianti Classico zone. The
grapes are harvested later than most to create a powerful,
concentrated wine that could challenge many Brunellos and
Cabernets. This difficult to find wine was born in 1983 and
captures its glory in the basking sun of 1997.
Querciabella
1997 Camartina $89.83
After spending most of his life in Mexico, Giuseppe Castiglioni
returned to his homeland and stumbled upon an enchanting
piece of land in Toscana. Finding himself in the heart of
Chianti’s wine country, he planted a few vines and
made wine to enjoy with friends. But the potential of the
land was too great a temptation. Castiglioni became engrossed
by his wine and in 1987 hired enologist Guido de Santi to
ensure that only the best wines would come from Querciabella.
The grapes for Camartina are carefully selected, and the
Sangiovese (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), and Merlot and
Syrah (5%) undergo vinification separately. Only after a
full year of aging in barriques are the best lots selected
through extensive tasting and assembled into the final blend,
which then undergoes further aging in both oak and bottle.
Depending on the vintage, Camartina reaches maturity between
4 and 7 years after the harvest. The 1997 is an exceptional
vintage. The concentrated fruit and high alcohol make this
an intense, warm wine. Layers of complexity unfold from
start to very long finish.
Fattoria
Petrolo 1997 Galatrona $195.00
Located in the Colli Aretini of Toscana, the Etruscan Tower
of Galatrona is the central focus of this classic estate.
Of the 272 hectares, 31 are planted to vines and fall in
the Colli Aretini zone of Chianti. The Bazzocchi family,
owners of Petrolo since the 1940s, stepped up their standards
of production in the late ‘80s and now focus on just
two decidedly modern bottlings, Galatrona and Torrione.
This pure varietal wine is yet another example—along
with Masseto, Redigaffi, and Lamaione—of the outstanding
levels Merlot can reach in Toscana. Rich, powerful, and
dense, with a huge impact, plenty of sweet overtones, and
very silky tannins.
Click
for more recent offers from IWM!
|
