October
19, 2005
Study
of Brunello and Map
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
No other Italian red wine has captured the attention of American
wine enthusiasts like Brunello di Montalcino. After World
War II, the town of Montalcino was one of the poorest towns
in Toscana; today, it is one of the wealthiest. In 1961, a
lone winemaker, Franco Biondi-Santi, churned out only 30,000
bottles of Brunello. In 2004, more than 220 winemakers produced
about six and a half million bottles.
Because of the overwhelming amount of new wines pouring
out of the region, even the savviest connoisseurs often
purchase Brunello based on hype and biased scoring systems—writers
reward “ready wines” in hope that they will
appeal to the masses, who will, in turn, continue to buy
their publication. Today, Montalcino’s wine producers
are trying to satisfy these journalists’ tastes by
banishingaging requirements; wines with great evolvement
potential are being marginalized in the name of profit.
Thankfully, Biondi-Santi and Gianfranco Soldera, arguably
Montalcino’s top two quality producers, are determined
to uphold Brunello’s quality and status. By insisting
on aging requirements, they are leading the fight against
opportunists.
Today, for my clients who hope to truly understand Brunello—and
who don’t rely on scores geared to the novice—I’ve
compiled a study that looks at how the varying altitudes
in Montalcino’s vineyards create similarities and
differences among the many wines. All variables in the study
are, of course, not constant, and generalizations can oversimplify
a complex subject. As well, this is just one way to comprehend
the wine; IWM Portfolio Managers can help you with others.
To enhance your Brunello experience now, you can read the
map I’ve provided while tasting the wines listed below.For
more specific questions or to make a purchase, please contact
Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323.
My best,
Sergio Esposito
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The
Vineyards of Montalcino
The Montalcino production zone can be broken into a range
of subzones. Within each there are variations in altitude,
soil composition, and weather patterns. In fact, the Consorzio
lists more than 24 distinct microclimates in the area. However,
to make it more manageable we have divided the region into
three territories - central, north, and south - which are
further delineated by nine subzones.
The best way to look at Montalcino is as an inverted cone
with its peak just south of the town of Montalcino (think
of dividing the square into four isosceles triangles as
shown on the map, with the center forming the apex of the
cone). From the center, the slopes generally descend outward
across the region. It thus becomes apparent that one of
the most influential variables in the character of these
wines is altitude. This wine zone enjoys a Mediterranean
climate as well as high altitudes that provide a cooling
effect that is beneficial to the grapes and prevents disease.
The differences in altitude and exposition throughout the
zone play a substantial role in the vegetal cycle of the
vines. Due to high altitudes, cooling conditions from winds
and evening temperature drops sustain a slower cycle in
vineyards like Il Greppo at Biondi Santi (480m+ above sea
level) than is found in lower altitudes such as the southwestern
site where Argiano (250m above sea level) undergoes a more
advanced cycle assisted by the sandier soils. This variance
is quickly captured by juxtaposing these two wines from
the same vintage: you will experience a denser, low-acid,
approachable wine in the Argiano, for instance, while the
less developed Biondi Santi is marked by structured tannins
and high acidity ideal for longevity. This hypothesis is
put to the test again with 1997 Sassetti (Pertimali) against
the 1997 Campogiovanni, with the same results holding true:
the Campogiovanni is much more approachable and rounder,
while the Pertimali flexes its tannic muscle and demands
further aging despite being from the same opulent vintage.
Click
to learn more about Brunello!
High
Altitude Delivers Wines of Structure
Brunello begins around the hilltop town of Montalcino. This
central subzone (also known as Montalcino), along with La
Croce just below it and Tavernelle to the west, forms the
traditional heartland of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG.
These are among the most elevated zones, where the altitudes
(indicated next to the estates) provide the perfect habitat
for more perfumed and elegant wines of structure and longevity,
as do the southern and eastern exposure and the producers'
vinification technique. These characteristics are enhanced
in many of the top wines because producers intentionally balance
ample but mature tannins with elevated acidity. The Tuscan
treasures from the central area include the historic estates
of Biondi Santi (480m), Fattoria dei Barbi, Il Palazzone,
and Conti Costanti. Continuing toward Tavernelle, there are
classic Brunellos from Poggio Antico (540m), Case Basse di
Soldera, Pieve Santa Restituta, and Il Poggiolo (520m).
Biondi-Santi
1970 Brunello Riserva $349.00*
Biondi-Santi 1977 Brunello Riserva $225.00*
Case
Basse di Soldera 1980 Brunello $289.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1980 Brunello $598.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1981 Brunello $289.00
Case Basse di Soldera 1981 Brunello $598.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1982 Brunello $365.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1982 Brunello $845.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1983 Brunello $299.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1983 Brunello $625.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1984 Brunello $289.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1984 Brunello $598.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1985 Brunello $390.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1985 Brunello $825.00 (1.5L)*
Case Basse di Soldera 1999 Brunello $198.00
Case Basse di Soldera 1997 Brunello Riserva $299.00*
Case Basse di Soldera 1998 Brunello Riserva $198.00
Case Basse di Soldera 1999 Brunello Riserva $247.50
Conti
Costanti 1985 Brunello $200.00
Conti Costanti 1988 Brunello $170.00
Conti Costanti 1990 Brunello $210.00
Conti Costanti 2000 Brunello $59.00*
Poggio
Antico 1988 Brunello $165.00
Poggio Antico 1990 Brunello Riserva $360.00 (1.5L)*
Poggio Antico 1999 Brunello Riserva $89.50
Pieve Santa Restituta 1998 Brunello ‘Rennina’
$105.00
Pieve Santa Restituta 1998 Brunello ‘Rennina’
$225.00 (1.5L)
Pieve Santa Restituta 1999 Brunello ‘Rennina’
$105.00
Pieve Santa Restituta 1998 Brunello ‘Sugarille’
$260.00 (1.5L)
Pieve Santa Restituta 1999 Brunello ‘Sugarille’
$125.00
Il
Palazzone 1997 Brunello $66.83
Il Palazzone 1998 Brunello $72.60
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello $84.95
Il Palazzone 2000 Brunello $69.98
Il Palazzone 1997 Brunello Riserva $89.10
Il Palazzone 1998 Brunello Riserva $80.16
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello Riserva $106.92
Fuligni
1990 Brunello $210.00 (1.5L)*
Cerbaiona
1983 Brunello $207.00
Cerbaiona 1999 Brunello $94.70
Cerbaiona 1999 Brunello $199.95 (1.5L)
Cerbaiona 2000 Brunello $94.70*
Le
Potazzine – Gorelli 1999 Brunello $70.13
Le Potazzine – Gorelli 1998 Brunello $60.51
*Future Arrivals
Click
for more long-lived Brunello!
Where
Ripeness Meets Structure
North of the Montalcino subzone the high elevation of the
central region begins to taper and form the northern territory,
which is made up of Canalicchio, Pianelli, and Montosoli and
also includes the western area of Camigliano for this exercise.
These subzones have a moderated share in the warm, dry Mediterranean
climate and high altitude of their neighbors to the south,
and the slight differences in temperature, humidity, and elevation
breed wines of both ripeness and structure. The minimized
exposure to cooling winds also contributes to the ripeness
of wines from this area. This is epitomized by the wines of
Livio Sassetti "Pertimali" (330m) and Altesino's
Montosoli cru, which typically combine serious aromas and
elegance with power and fruit. Further west, the wine of Silvio
Nardi expresses elegance and fruit at a price that places
it among IWM's best values. Continue the exploration with
the map and the recommended wines below.
Altesino
2000 Brunello $46.50
Altesino 1999 Brunello ‘Montosoli’ $82.50
Altesino 1985 Brunello ‘Vigna Altesi’ $225.00
Altesino 1993 Brunello ‘Vigna Altesi’ $98.00
Altesino 1983 Brunello Riserva $160.00
Altesino 1990 Brunello Riserva $195.00*
Altesino 1999 Brunello Riserva $88.50
Tenuta
Caparzo 1982 Brunello $198.00
Tenuta Caparzo 1985 Brunello $299.00 (1.5L)*
Tenuta Caparzo 1999 Brunello $39.50
Tenuta Caparzo 1988 Brunello ‘La Casa’ $189.00
Tenuta Caparzo 1990 Brunello ‘La Casa’ $195.00*
Tenuta Caparzo 1990 Brunello ‘La Casa’ $195.00*
Val
di Suga 1988 Brunello ‘Spuntali’ $165.00
Val di Suga 1985 Brunello ‘Vigna Lago’ $195.00
Livio
Sassetti “Pertimali” 1985 Brunello $265.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1986 Brunello $145.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1997 Brunello $129.00
Livio Sassetti “Pertimali” 1999 Brunello Riserva
$98.95*
Donatella
Cinelli Colombini 1997 Brunello $74.50
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2000 Brunello $44.50*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 1998 Brunello Ris $49.67*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 1999 Brunello Ris $52.00*
Donatella Cinelli Colombini '99 Brunello Ris $108.00 (1.5L)*
Canalicchio
di Sopra 1985 Brunello $245.00
Silvio
Nardi 1999 Brunello $49.50
Castiglion
del Bosco 1999 Brunello ‘Campo del Drago’ $79.95
La
Rasina 1999 Brunello $57.48
La
Serena 1998 Brunello $94.00 (1.5L)
Marchesi
de' Frescobaldi – Castelgiocondo 99 Brunello $61.60
Frescobaldi – Castelgiocondo 1988 Brunello Ris $149.00*
*Future Arrivals
Click
to learn about Barolo that joins ripeness and structure!
Approachability
on the Lower Slopes
The southern region, like the others, is contoured so that
there is a dramatic shift from estate to estate with regard
to altitude. But the warmer climate shows through in all the
wines. The vineyards that fan out eastward from Tavernelle
into Sant'Angelo are exposed to a more full-on Mediterranean
climate than the rest of Montalcino, with sandier soils, less
wind, and lower altitude, similar to the more southerly exposed
Maremma zone. The effects can also be seen in other crops:
look at the olives from this region at this time of year and
they will be turning black, as opposed to olives found on
Il Greppo that are still green. As with the olives, these
attributes contribute to a denser, less acidic, fruitier side
of Brunello. The vineyards that spread west into Castelnuovo
dell'Abate deliver similar characteristics. However, some
estates, like Talenti and Poggio di Sotto, have elevated vineyards
with southern and western exposures that create potent wines
with a spectacular combination of structure and ripeness.
Argiano
1997 Brunello $69.95
Argiano 1999 Brunello $42.96*
Argiano 1988 Brunello Riserva $195.00*
Argiano 1990 Brunello Riserva $215.00*
Castello
Banfi 1997 Brunello Riserva ‘Poggio all’Oro’
$98.50
Castello Banfi 1988 Brunello Ris.‘Poggio all’Oro’
$175.00*
Castello Banfi 1990 Brunello Ris.‘Poggio all’Oro’
$195.00*
Casanova
di Neri 1999 Brunello $56.50
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello Tenuta Nuova $59.95*
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello Tenuta Nuova $139.00 (1.5L)*
San
Felice – Campogiovanni 1990 Brunello $198.00
San Felice – Campogiovanni 1997 Brunello $98.50
San Felice–Campogiovanni 90 Brunello Ris ‘Quercione’
$219.00*
Talenti
1985 Brunello $210.00
Talenti 1998 Brunello $58.44
Talenti 1988 Brunello Riserva $200.00
Talenti 1997 Brunello Riserva $85.00
Talenti 1998 Brunello Riserva ‘Paretaio’ $71.99
Poggio
di Sotto 1998 Brunello $99.90
Poggio di Sotto 1999 Brunello $94.95
*Future Arrivals
Click
for more approachable Brunello!
IWM
in the Windy City!
Chicago Wine and Food Festival
Featuring Sergio Esposito and IWM
Friday - Sunday, October 22-23, 2005
Chicago’s three-day Wine & Food Festival has quickly
become one of the largest of its kind in the country. This
year Sergio Esposito and IWM will be involved in three events
in our continued effort to bring quality Italian wine across
the country.
Reserve Wine Tasting at Peninsula Hotel
Saturday, October 22, 2005, 1:00–3:00pm
This year’s reserve tasting will put some of the finest
wine to come from the Boot up against the first growths
of Bordeaux and cult Cabernets of California. See how Sergio
champions Italy against these cellar staples.
Revival of Classical Italian Wines
Seminar with Sergio Esposito at Kendall College
Sunday, October 23, 2005, 2:00–2:45pm
Catch Sergio as he provides a lecture on the The Revival
of Classical Italian Wine. As in Miami, he will showcase
the likes of Montevertine, Mascarello, Quintarelli, Movia,
and a special 1959 dessert wine.
Grand Tasting Event
Sunday, October 23, 2005, 11:30am-5:30pm
IWM will be pouring at the Grand Tasting with red and white
wines that will range from the indigenous Ribolla Gialla
varietal found in Friuli (in northern Italy) to the king
of wines, Barolo, and a rare vintage treat.
Visit the Chicago Wine & Food Festival!
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