July
21, 2005
Movia
- Honoring History with Great Wine
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
They don't sound Italian - Stanislao Radikon, Josko Gravner,
Damijan Podversic, and Ales Kristancic - but these are the
winemaking names that are building the international reputation
of the Collio, Fruili's delimited zone that straddles the
Italian-Slovenian border and is responsible for the great
quality whites of Italy. Theirs are not the clean, crisp wines
that revolutionized the region when avant-garde producers
like Schiopetto and Felluga introduced stainless steel; these
wines showcase individual personality and represent the independent
spirit of some of Italy's greatest viticulturalists and traditionalists.
Here, in the long shadows of war, famine, natural disaster,
and political divide, lives the man I believe to be the
best winemaker in the Northeast region, second only to the
Veneto's master Giuseppe Quintarelli. Ales Kristancic of
Movia knows as much about making wine as anyone I have ever
met. He knows his craft as well as Lee Iacocca knows how
to sell cars or Tiger Woods knows how to play golf. For
more than two centuries the 20+ hectares of Kristancic vines
have occupied the rotating political space of Brda (the
Slovenian name for Collio), the inconsistency of which has
not interrupted their bio-dynamic approach to winemaking.
Words create the political boundary, and a simple little
dirt road now divides the two countries. The Movia estate
is on the Slovenian side, and although some of the Movia
vineyards are on the Italian side he cannot legally call
his estate Italian because his mailing address remains as
it has for hundreds of years. If he put a mailbox in his
Italian vineyards he would be allowed to call his wines
Italian. As Ales says, "We who live in Brda - the Collio
- have in the past been considered Italian, Hungarian, German,
Yugoslavian, and so on, and through all of these political
changes the only thing that has always remained the same
is the people who are of this land."
These are some of the greatest wines not just of Italy
but of the world, and it is not just the whites that are
begging to be recognized. On my last visit with Eric Asimov,
chief wine writer for The New York Times, we had the opportunity
to taste Movia's 1963 Merlot, which had the richness of
Pomerol and the ageability of Piemonte. On other visits
Ales and I have tasted Ribollas dating back to the fifties
and sixties - the only other Italian whites I can compare
them to are the wines of Fiorano. These timeless treasures
are miracles of viticultral science - firsthand evidence
that the whites of the Collio, as well as the reds, have
the ability to age gracefully. I cannot emphasize enough
that these are some of the best values in the wine world.
Read on below to learn more on the Movia estate and the
esoteric wines of Ales Kristancic. Other ways to experience
the great wines of Italy are listed under Seminars &
Wine Festivals below.
All the best,
Sergio Esposito
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Kristancic
Heritage
In Brda, Movia has been producing wine for more than three
centuries. Purchased by the Kristancic family in 1820, the
estate was recently passed from Mirko to his young son Ales.
This French- and Italian-trained winemaker takes a historical
but radical approach to his wines. He ages the whites in 600-liter
Slovenian oak casks or traditional Slovenian barriques (which
are actually smaller than French barriques), leaving them
on the lees without stirring for more than two years. His
reds deserve a treatment no less novel. Depending on the variety,
Ales leaves his reds to age for three to seven years, once
again in small Slovenian oak casks. This is an excellent example
of how oak can be a tool, not a weapon. He never racks the
wines; they are fined and filtered by the atmospheric pressure
brought by the arrival of the new moon. This is a purely natural
approach that leaves the wines brilliantly clear.
Students and winemakers around the globe watch his winemaking
techniques, and many visit him to observe and learn. His
approach cannot simply be classified as traditional or even
purely natural: over two centuries of winemaking at the
Movia farm, the trials and tribulations of the Kristancic
family have been passed from generation to generation as
collective wisdom. Here you will not hear the abused terms
of 'green harvest,' '100% new French barrique,' or 'low
yields.' What you will find is a thorough understanding
of vine and root management performed by hand and developed
over time. Ales' grapes are picked late from old vines that
range from 30 to 80 years of age. This is the most mature
and productive period of the vines, when they absorb nutrients
from deep within the soil and create the full, rich but
never sweet wines Ales desires.
Ales learned these techniques while growing up in the vineyards
and winery. As the new moon rose he dutifully helped his
father transfer wines from barrel to barrel. Slowly, the
family business grew on him, and today he wholeheartedly
implements the rigorous biodynamic principles handed down
to him with a revived passion.
Click for last week's e-Letter on Sangiovese!
Movia's
Varietal Wines
Movia
2002 Sauvignon $25.24
The omnipresent Sauvignon Blanc reinvents itself in the hands
of a master. This "international" varietal is known
worldwide for its grassy gooseberry aromas when alone and
as the dominant component in many white Bordeaux blends. In
Ales' case the Sauvignon vines were brought here by Napoleon's
army and have cloned themselves into an entirely different
expression of the varietal. His Sauvignon offers high acidity
that can balance richness or can be harnessed and developed
into a more complex disposition with oak aging. With its vivacious
character, it can master many distinct roles and stands up
well to various types of foods.
This wine is a must try from Movia! Made from a particular
clone of Sauvignon Blanc found only in one plot of the Movia
vineyards. Subtle and not as "green" as typical
Sauvignon. Compelling notes of tangerine and mango liven
the elegant palate. This wine lolls on its lees for 20 months
in new oak, where it gains a voluptuous roundness and a
long, supple finish.
Movia
2003 Ribolla $25.24
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one of Friuli's
oldest indigenous vines. Back in the 12th century it was
the drink of choice in the Republic of Venice under the
name Rabiola del Collio; through the ages it also supplied
Torbolino, a sweet wine traditionally served on the Day
of the Dead. Robust and late-ripening, Ribolla Gialla enjoys
the well-ventilated hills of the Collio zone. Today, the
worldwide popularity of Pinot Grigio and local fanfare for
Tocai have overshadowed this aromatic varietal, but in the
hands of many of Friuli's most iconoclastic producers the
wine recaptures its own well-deserved glory. Just over the
border in Slovenia the grape is known as Rebula, and it
is also grown as Robola in Greece. Ribolla wines are generally
dry and buttery with good acidity in their youth. However,
many examples age well and shed their juvenile vivacity
in favor of a mature richness, as I have observed in tastings
with Ales that included Movia Ribollas from the 50's, 60's,
70's, and 80's.
A pretty copper color at the core. Rich in fresh apples
and damson with a chalky streak right down the middle. Vibrant
acidity with a velvet touch backed by buttery oak and spicy
fruit.
Movia
2003 Tokai Gredic $25.24
Tocai Friulano is Friuli's ambassador to the world, an offbeat
indigenous varietal that has earned a place in diverse wine
circles alongside its more ubiquitous cousins. The ancestry
of the grape is widely debated, with some claiming a relation
to Furmint, which furnishes Hungary's Tokaji. ("Friulano"
was added to the name Tocai to avoid confusion with this
famous dessert wine; eventually the wine may simply be labeled
"Friulano" based on arrangements set by the EU.)
Others point to the alias Sauvignon Vert or Sauvignonasse
to back their assertion that Tocai is related to France's
Sauvignon Blanc. Also grown in various regions outside of
Friuli, this ancient varietal is at its best in the Collio,
where it is traditionally served with antipasti of smoked
prosciutto and speck. This masculine white grape offers
a range of characteristics brought out by the varying microclimates
and producer styles, which range from crisp to a creamy
texture and from smoky to peppery.
Floral notes, hazelnuts, and pears on the nose. Firm but
balanced acidity animates tropical fruit with fresh baked
bread, new oak, and some spice. A smooth, fresh wine that
captures Tocai's signature mineral finish and Ales' dynamic
touch.
Movia
2002 Pinot Grigio $25.24
Like Chianti and Soave before it, Italian Pinot Grigio has
become so ubiquitous in American wine stores that it is
easy for serious enophiles to pass it over. This genetic
variation of Pinot Noir has great merit when treated kindly,
though, and Friuli's top producers consistently show us
why this varietal deserves attention and respect. The fruit
actually ranges from an eponymous grey (thus the name 'grigio'
in Italian and 'gris' in French) to a delicate, pinky mauve,
with berries of varied shades often found within a single
bunch. The resulting wine is similarly varied not only in
color - due to different source fruit and vinification methods
- but also in style, ranging from light and zippy to rich
and mouth-filling, the latter being demonstrated Movia's
style. Classic varietal characteristics include delicate
aromas of flowers and lemon. Movia's Pinot Grigio is grown
entirely in Friuli, but the vinification facilities are
a step across the border in Slovenia.
Golden reflections. Fresh, round tropical fruit and gentle
citrus on the nose. Rich in minerals, white fruits, and
acacia honey with a creaminess reminiscent of crème
brûlée.
Click for more recent offers from IWM!
Movia's
Blends
As opposed the monovarietal emphasis featured above, Ales
also produces two standout cuvees or blends that are again
created with a focus towards building big, rich, full-bodied
wines. Each is handcrafted from estate-grown grapes grown
in Slovenia and Italy as vines her divided, with more of the
reds grown on the Slovenian side. The Veliko Bianco (or Belo)
is an IWM favorite that is ready to drink today and will deliver
at any event. In addition, Ales has aged his Veliko Rosso
with the objective of making it accessible upon release -
with close to ten years of age on the wine, it is an exceptional
value.
Movia
2001 Veliko Bianco $28.05
(Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio)
Each vintage of Movia's 'Big' or 'Great' white - Veliko
Belo in Slovene - is a blend of varying proportions of Ribolla,
Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Pinot Grigio and spends three
years in oak. Receding gold shines in the glass. Flowery
hints on the nose are followed by a robust palate of persimmon,
apricot and baked apple touched by traces of cinnamon and
vanilla. Elegant and age-worthy, this is a superb value.
Movia
1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero)
Veliko Rosso (Veliko Rdece in Slovene) is Movia's 'Great
Red,' a distinguished blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot
Nero. Rich, dark fruit emerges, accented by fresh evergreen
and a dash of spice. Big and rich without excess bulk. Gracefully
integrated tannins and a long finish. This wine will surprise
and delight those who have never experienced Movia!
Click for IWM's featured producers!
Movia
Summer Sampler
IWM is offering six great examples from Movia in both a six-pack
(1 of each) and a case sampler (2 of each) for your summer
entertaining. Experience the pure white varietals of the native
Ribolla Gialla, Tocai, and Pinot Grigio as well as a unique
take on the noble Sauvignon Blanc. Ribolla, Chardonnay, Sauvignon,
and Pinot Grigio come together to create an exotic blend in
Veliko Bianco, and taste what happens when Cabernet, Merlot,
and Pinot Nero commingle in the rolling hills of the Collio.
Each wine provides for a unique palate adventure. This is
a great way to experience the wines of one of the world's
great winemakers at an approachable price.
Movia
2002 Pinot Grigio $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 2003 Ribolla $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 2002 Sauvignon $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 2001 Veliko Bianco $28.05 (750ml)
Movia 2003 Tokai Gredic $25.24 (750ml)
Movia 1996 Veliko Rosso $36.47 (750ml)
IWM Movia Six-Pack (6) $165.48*
IWM Movia Case Sampler (12) $304.47*
*Free delivery to NYC residents
Click to order your Super Whites Case by fax!
Seminars
& Wine Festivals
Experience IWM and the wines of Italy through the Vintage
Babbo Wine Dinner Series and the upcoming Tanglewood Wine
Festival. Please join us for three events as we continue to
uncork Italy's best.
Tanglewood Wine and Food Classic
Thursday-Saturday, July 21-23
Here's the chance for a summer wine weekend escape in the
Berkshires. Less than 150 miles outside of New York City,
situated at the Hawthorne Tent with its gorgeous panorama
of the verdant Berkshire hills, the Tanglewood Wine and
Food Classic offers guests the chance to sample wines and
food from all over the world and taste a selection from
Italian Wine Merchants. Hourly cooking demonstrations will
be held on the Viking culinary performance set -an opportunity
to learn the tricks of the trade from nationally acclaimed
chefs. Regional artisans will present a variety of food-
and wine-inspired art. Select restaurants will serve up
signature dishes to accompany the best efforts of participating
wineries.
IWM is involved with select wine festivals around the country,
including the Central Coast Classic in Pismo Beach, the
Nantucket Wine Festival, and L'ete du Vin in Nashville,
among others. This weekend is an exceptional opportunity
for people in the Tri-State area to enjoy the outdoors with
wine, food, and music.
Click to learn more on the Tanglewood Wine Festival.
Barolo & Barbaresco 1990
Monday, July 25 ($495 per person)
There's a reason we've been obsessing over this vintage:
the wines are drinking spectacularly now, and they still
have lots of life ahead! After hearing raves for our recent
tasting of 1990 Brunello di Montalcino, we scoured the cellar
for a stellar lineup from Alba. Come taste these elegant,
powerful reds with a menu of Piedmontese specialties to
bring out their best.
Italy's "Cult Wines"
Monday, August 15 ($495 per person)
The French have their garagistes, the Californians their
"cult cab" producers, and of course Italy has
its share of boutique wineries (and wines) as well. Often
with little more than a fanciful name to identify them ("Redigaffi,"
"Montevetrano," etc.), these limited-production
gems have captured the hearts of critics and consumers alike
- despite the difficulties inherent in finding them. We
hunted down some of the rarer Italian cult wines for a tasting
that will show them to be wines for the long haul, not just
flashes in the pan.
How to Reserve Vintage Babbo Seats: Contact Caroline Marshall
at 917.715.3599 and specify which tasting you would like
to attend.
Click for more ways to taste with IWM!
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