June
13 , 2005
An
American in Montalcino
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
In the past 12 months, I have on several occasions referenced
my concerns with Montalcino: among other points, that the
growth rate of new vineyards is alarming and that producer
experimentation such as blending is leading Montalcino down
the dangerous path of losing its typicity. However, there
is a handful of producers like Soldera, Cerbaiona, Poggio
di Sotto, Sassetti, Talenti, and the producer I am featuring
today, Il Palazzone, that provide a unique expression of the
Sangiovese grape. Each producer manages to cultivate its personality
with power, concentration, and longevity - it was these preserving
qualities that Clemente Santi was attempting to capture when
he isolated a Sangiovese clone in the 1840's.
A lot has happened in the region recently, including a
trend toward more internationally styled wines. While two
Americans, Mariani and Mondavi, have undoubtedly made a
grandiose impact on the Montalcino scene, it is the third,
under the Il Palazzone label, who I believe is establishing
himself by taking a more artisanal approach to wine production.
Richard Parsons, CEO and Chairman of TimeWarner, acquired
the estate just a few years back and has managed loyally
to participate in the production of his wine at every stage
despite a demanding agenda here in New York. This New Yorker
and wine enthusiast is producing Brunello that displays
a more austere and classic side to the noble grape.
Today, I am pleased to highlight the limited production
wines of Il Palazzone as well as providing a general introduction
to Brunello. Should you have additional questions or want
to purchase these wines, please call Perry Porricelli at
212.473.2323.
All the best,
Sergio Esposito
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Il
Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino
Il Palazzone, "The Big Palace," ironically is a
small estate (10 acres under vine) located in the heart of
the Montalcino production region, just 1 km west of the Montalcino
town itself, and is in close proximity to the historic Costanti
estate and the cult wine favorite from La Cerbaiona / Salvioni.
The advantage of this part of Montalcino is that in hot years
like 1999 and 2000 the grapes avoid the harsh heat with a
little hint of over-ripeness that exists elsewhere in Montalcino.
These collector wines are the perfect result of the terroir
elements working together: an altitude of 400+ meters provides
cooling and ventilation, an established root system allows
for resilience during drought periods, and the tufaceous and
chalky soils provide for mineral characteristics in the wine.
It is in this region and heading southwest towards Tavernelle
that the greatest, most structured Brunello is produced. Under
the right guidance these wines can be more austere and can
have the ability to age longer. Dick Parsons has managed this
alongside famed oenologist Paolo Vagaggini (who has worked
with Nardi, Uccelliera, and Fuligni). In the cellar, Paolo
pays respect to the fruit by using various dimensions of oak
barrels to create a harmonious balance between the fruit aromas
of the grapes and the secondary bouquet developed in the aging
process.
Il Palazzone focuses its energy on just three bottlings
- Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva,
and Rosso di Montalcino - all of which are very full-bodied
and elegant. The Brunello Riserva is produced only in truly
outstanding vintages, and all the wines are aged in French
oak. In order to concoct ageworthy Brunello of the best
quality, the estate allows an extra year in wood beyond
the DOCG standard and releases each vintage six months or
more after most wineries do. Although the ripe vintages
of 1995 and 1997 are both showing well now, we do recommend
holding the 1997 for a few more years; the 1999 should rest
until 2009 for the optimal experience; and the 2000 Rosso
di Montalcino, which is among the best in the vintage, is
ready to drink today!
Il Palazzone 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $69.98
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $84.95
Il Palazzone 1998 Brunello di Montalcino $72.60
Il Palazzone 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $66.83
Il Palazzone 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $97.65
Il Palazzone 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $83.16
Il Palazzone 2000 Rosso di Montalcino $23.51 (not included
in case)
Il Palazzone Brunello Six-Pack (6): $475.17* (1 of each)
Il Palazzone Brunello Case Sampler (12): $926.34* (2 of
each)
*Free delivery in Manhattan
Due to the estate's desirable location in wine country
and its close proximity to the historic city of Montalcino,
Il Palazzone provides the ideal accomodations for the thirsty
traveller. Click to learn more!
Click for more Brunello!
Understanding
the Individuality of Montalcino
Brunello (the little dark one) is a Tuscan dialect name for
a particular Sangiovese clone most often grown in Montalcino,
south of both Chianti and Siena. The ancient walled city,
whose name means "the mountain of the holm-oaks"
has a rich history that includes struggles against the Florentines
and the Spanish empire. This circular territory, delimited
by the Orcia, Asso, and Ombrone valleys, has a diameter of
16 kilometers and a surface area of 24,362 hectares. As you
will learn below, there is no finer residence to extract complexity
from the Sangiovese grape. Click for a detailed map (please
allow a moment for the PDF file to open).
While vineyards are believed to have graced the rolling
hills of Montalcino as early as the 10th century, the history
of Brunello di Montalcino is relatively short by Italian
wine standards. Many of the estates in the region trace
their lineage back several centuries, but Brunello is just
150 years old. Up until the 1500's the wine of the region
was a sweet white from the Muscat grape labelled Moscadello
di Montalcino and was followed by wines made from the traditional
Tuscan varietals Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Trebbiano, and Malvasia.
The birth of Brunello dates to the mid-1800's when Clemente
Santi took an isolated Sangiovese clone and planted the
vines on what would become the legendary family estate,
Il Greppo.
With its growth, Brunello became recognized as the ultimate
expression of the Sangiovese grape in that it combines power,
concentration, complexity, and personality that few Chiantis
or Vino Nobile di Montepulcianos can match. However, it
is not the clone itself that is responsible for this. Among
the contributing factors are soil composition, climatic
conditions, altitudes, and ageing requirements set by the
DOCG. In the Montalcino zone the soil will generally contain
more sand and limestone than soils farther north in the
region of Chianti. The climate is another decisive factor,
as there is a significant shift from the damper, cooler,
continental climate of Chianti Classico to a more dry, heat-infused
Mediterranean environment that is cooled by air currents
formed by the Montalcino hills and shelter provided by Tuscany's
highest peak, Mount Amiata. It is these influences that
enhance the muscularity of the Sangiovese grape, in turn
making a more rich, dark, concentrated, and delicious red
(heavier and more tannic than Chianti). The tongue-curling
tannins and firm acidity allow these wines to age and have
captured the attention of wine collectors worldwide. The
longevity of wines from this area was tested by Clemente's
grandson Ferruccio Biondi-Santi when he laid down significant
quantities of the 1888 and 1891 vintages. These have proven
their endurance through countless tastings, even one hundred
years after their bottling. While the Santi family had this
early vision, it wasn't until the 1960's that Brunello began
to show its grandeur thanks to the early efforts of the
Costanti estate and Giovanni Colombini of Fattoria dei Barbi,
among others.
As with last week's analysis of the Barolo region, the
Montalcino production zone can be broken down into a range
of subzones. Within each there are variations in altitude,
soil composition, and weather patterns. In fact, the Consorzio
lists more than 24 distinct microclimates in the area. In
addition to this range of elements there is an array of
styles from each producer that make it difficult to examine
terroir in a side-by-side comparison. However, the six pack
below will provide a nice introduction to vintage variation,
producer style, and terroir. It includes wines from the
legendary 1995, 1997, and 1999 vintages; the overlooked
1998; the forward, modern style of Argiano from Sant'Angelo
in contrast to the more angular style of Lisini; the class
of Il Palazzone's Riserva from Montalcino; Antinori's take
on Brunello with Pian delle Vigne; Tenuta Caparzo's elegance
from the Montosoli area; and a "baby Brunello"
from La Fornace in the northeast area of Pianelli. Use this
map and the tasting case below as a guide to Brunello. Contact
an IWM Portfolio Manager for more specifics.
Introduction to Brunello:
Il Palazzone 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $83.16
Argiano 1997 Brunello di Montalcino $69.95
Pian delle Vigne 1998 Brunello di Montalcino $69.00
Caparzo 1999 Brunello di Montalcino $39.50
Lisini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
La Fornace 2001 Rosso di Montalcino $26.89
Brunello Six Pack Sampler (6): $338.49* (1 of each)
Brunello Case Sampler (12): $642.01* (2 of each)
*Free delivery in Manhattan
Click for more Brunello producers!
Father's
Day Gift: Monthly Wine Club
The enthusiast looking to discover quality Italian wine will
find the perfect match in IWM's Monthly Wine Club: Big Wines
Passport. Whether for Dad on Father's Day or a special treat
for yourself, this is a distinct learning experience that
will expand the mind and palate. IWM's most popular passport,
"Big Wines" includes single vineyard selections
and some of Italy's major powerhouse wines. These bottlings
are drinkable now but may improve with age. Accompanying the
monthly selections are producer and tasting notes that will
help develop your own observations.
Includes:
- Three Wines per Month
- Prices Well Below Market Value
- Producer / Tasting Notes
- Vino Italiano
- Six Brunello Wine Glasses
Pricing Options:
3-Month Program: $534.00
6-Month Program: $984.00
12-Month Program: $1,884.00
For more Father's Day gift ideas visit our Gift Page or
call 212.473.2323 to take care of all your gift-giving needs!
Wine
Dinners at Babbo with IWM!
IWM is pleased to announce our partnering effort with Babbo
to bring vintage Italian wine to the enthusiast. Vintage Babbo
is a new wine seminar and tasting series held at our sister
restaurant. Presented by Joe Bastianich and Dave Lynch, these
Monday evening events are open to the public and feature rare
wine selections as well as a tasting menu designed specially
by Mario Batali. The tastings are meditations on the history
and evolution of Italian wine and present the opportunity
to taste the rare, the classic, and the difficult-to-find
gems of the Boot - with food that magnifies the enjoyment
of each sip!
Italy Takes on the World, Part "Deux":Taking
on the French
June 20th, $495 per person
The last time we had Italy take on the world, we didn't
actually put the Italians up against their vaunted international
competition. For this tasting, we'll break Babbo house rules
and allow in some great reds from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and
elsewhere. How does cru Barolo stack up against cru Burgundy?
How about a Bordeaux-style super-Tuscan versus actual Bordeaux?
And for that matter, how does Mario tackle a Frenchified
theme like this? Don't miss this one-of-a-kind event!
HOW TO RESERVE
Contact Caroline Marshall at 917.715.3599 and specify which
tasting you would like to attend.
Click for more on IWM Tasting Events!
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