June
1, 2005
Bartolo
Mascarello's Legacy
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
Scavino Rocche dell'Annunziata, Aldo Conterno Cicala, Giacosa
Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto - these wines represent
some of the greatest expressions of the Nebbiolo. The advent
of single-vineyard bottlings, launched by the likes of Beppe
Colla of Prunotto and the Ceretto brothers over thirty years
ago have had a profound impact on the Barolo landscape. There
is much to discover within each commune and within each vineyard
on the soils of the Langhe hills. However, the Holy Grail
of Barolo is not a single-vineyard wine labeled Brunate, Cannubi,
or Rocche dell'Annunziata. The divine juice is rather a cuvee
from the Mascarello estate's single bottling of Barolo.
The grapes for this blend are sourced from just five hectares
planted in the historic and prestigious Barolo vineyards
of Cannubi, Rue, San Lorenzo, and Rocche from La Morra which
allows for just 1,200 cases, of which only a handful make
it to the States. Here, three great protectors of Barolo
tradition (Giulio, Bartolo, and Maria Teresa Mascarello)
have never bowed to the French custom of cru or single-
vineyard bottlings, let alone the use of barriques. While
Giulio moved away from the negociant model and use of demijohns
(the standard for its time), little has changed since this
estate was born in 1918. The practice of assembling ripe
fruit from low yields in different vineyards to create a
single estate Barolo is law and ensures wines of balance
and harmony. Under this Mascarello philosophy Barolo is
a wine of patience and there are no short cuts. Barolo is
not the wine of instant gratification that changing palates
are demanding. "No Barrique, No Berlusconi" became
Bartolo's anthem. This man of unyielding conviction, who
inherited his father's passion for both the grape and politics,
passed away in March. Alas, the Last of the Mohicans is
no more. However, like his father, he instilled these same
values and techniques in the next generation, Maria Teresa,
who now carries on the artisan's craft and represents the
future of Barolo's Old School. She has been producing the
wine under the watchful eye of the master for over a decade.
The door is still open at Via Roma 15, and the tradition
is very much alive.
Read on below to learn about the highly anticipated arrival
of the 2000s as well as an unprecedented offering of Mascarello's
1964, 1986, 1989, and 1990 vintages. While Mascarello represents
the extreme in traditional winemaking, the importance of
single- vineyard bottlings cannot be ignored. Aldo Conterno's
single-vineyard bottlings of Cicala and Colonnello provide
spellbinding depth, but his traditionaly styled Gran Bussia
(sourced from multiple vineyards on Bussia) is his crowning
achievement. While exploring Barolo it is important not
to forget truly traditional Barolo. I have included a detailed
map of Barolo outlining the communes and crus of the Langhe
hills so that you may begin to understand some of the nuances
influenced by soil type and commune. This is a great way
to experience Nebbiolo in all its forms. Should you have
additional questions or want to purchase these wines, please
call Perry Porricelli at 212.473.2323.
All the best,
Sergio Esposito
Tell a Friend about IWM!
Mascarello
2000 and More!
This is a unique and rare offering for connoisseurs and aspiring
collectors. In a good year, Bartolo produces approximately
1,500 cases, of which only a small percentage is exported
to the States. Many of these wines are well-cellared from
Sergio's own collection. For this limited offering, IWM is
including Mascarello wines unavailable anywhere else in the
US, including the 40-year-old 1964 bottling as well as wines
from the landmark 1989, 1990, 1997, 1998, 1999 and 2000 vintages.
For the younger wines, we encourage you to remain patient
and open the wines 10-30 years after their vintage dates.
What To Expect From Your Investment:
A while back, Sergio and Eric Asimov, chief wine critic
for The New York Times, travelled to Italy and tasted the
great wines of Bartolo Mascarello. While there, Eric had
the unique opportunity to taste and write about the 1964
Mascarello Barolo: "...an unforgettable wine full of
signature aromas of tar, truffles, tobacco, and yet as fresh
as a wine 30 years younger."
Typical Mascarello Wine Notes:
A ten-year old Barolo from Bartolo will typically carry
the traditional garnet red with highlights of orange bracing
the rim. A delicate and enticing bouquet of old rose petals,
violet, and licorice embrace the nose. On the palate, there
is serious structure and exquisite balance with flavors
of dried cherries, tobacco, leather, tar, and tell-tale
truffle. Acidity and tannins are firmly braced by noble
structure. These are the trademarks of a well-made, traditional
Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello!
*Please note that the super ripe vintages of 1990, 1997,
and 2000 will provide even more fruit flavor and can be
more accessible. Contact our portfolio managers for more
information on these vintages or to find out when to uncork
these classics.
IWM's Legendary Barolos of Mascarello
Bottles (750ml):
Mascarello
2000 Barolo $89.00
Mascarello 1999 Barolo $85.00
Mascarello 1998 Barolo $75.75
Mascarello 1997 Barolo $84.95
Mascarello 1996 Barolo $96.90
Mascarello 1995 Barolo $87.95
Legendary Mascarello Barolo Sampler and Case
1995-2000
Mascarello Barolo (1 of each) - $519.55
1995-2000 Mascarello Barolo Case (2 of each) - $1024.86
(Note: limited availability, sizes are 750ml)
Magnums (1.5L):
Mascarello
2000 Barolo $198.00
Mascarello 1998 Barolo $155.00
Mascarello 1997 Barolo $189.95
Mascarello 1995 Barolo $198.00
Mascarello 1990 Barolo $690.00
Mascarello 1989 Barolo $690.00
Mascarello 1986 Barolo $690.00
Mascarello 1964 Barolo $989.00
Click to order Mascarello by fax!
Mascarello
Dolcetto
The "little sweet one" is well loved in Italy for
its simplicity, low acidity, consistent ripening ability (weeks
before Nebbiolo), and easy-going character of intense grapey
aromas and fleshy fruit flavors. Recently renewed interest
is giving it a new reputation as fat, dark, and powerful.
This charming wine is so popular that the Piemontese are said
always to have at least 50% Dolcetto running through their
veins. Shedding the complexity and depth of Barolo and Barbaresco,
it is perfect for the hot summer months.
Though Mascarello's Barolos steal the limelight, the estate's
Dolcettos are held to the same exacting production standards
and provide excellence in everyday enjoyment. Production
is tiny since Nebbiolo claims three of their five hectares
and the remaining two are shared with Barbera.
Mascarello
2003 Dolcetto $23.95 ($264.41 / case)
Bright ruby. Abundant fruit bathed in kirsch on the nose,
supported by darker earthy notes. More full fruit on the
palate with zippy acidity, gentle tannin, and cherries tumbling
onto a long, healthy finish.
Click here for more recent offers from IWM!
Understanding
Cru Barolo
There are eleven villages, townships or "communes"
that make up the Barolo DOCG. However, there are five key
zones that you should be acquainted with that contribute 87%
of the wine. These are La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto,
Serralunga d'Alba, and Monforte d'Alba. The soil types divide
these communes into two zones, the Central Valley to the east
made up of Tortonian soil (creates more approachable wines
with fragrance, softness, and elegance), and the Serralunga
Valley to the west consisting of Helvetian soil (generally
creates long-lived, powerfully concentrated wines). For a
detailed map, click the image at left (allow a moment for
the PDF file to open).
The physical elements of each commune provide further characteristics
that distinguish it from the other four communes. These
qualities are even further segmented by the microclimates
where specific vineyards rest. Until the early 1970's Barolo
was for the most part a non-cru wine. Barolo was generally
the ideal blend of grapes from: La Morra (for fragrance
and softness); Barolo (for grace and earthiness); Castiglione
Falletto (for boldness and richness); Serralunga (for depth
and power); and Monforte (for concentration and structure).
However, thanks to the refined efforts of Gaja, Ratti,
and Ceretto, among others, the approach of single-vineyard
designations is now an ingrained practice for Barolo much
as it is for the great wines of Burgundy. Due to the varied
soil types and exposures across vineyards there is a lot
to discover. The map illustrated here (click on the map
at left) lists some of the highly regarded vineyards in
the Barolo zone by soil type and is further broken down
by the "general" characteristics of each commune.
This generalization needs to be used cautiously, as it is
important to note that all variables are not constant and
generalizations can oversimplify a complex subject. Individual
site altitude and exposure, viticulture and vinification
technique, clonal variation, producer style, and vintage
conditions can change these characterisitics. Use this map
and the tasting case below as guidelines. Contact an IWM
Portfolio Manager for more specifics.
Vintage Cru Barolo Sampler:
Prunotto
1985 Cannubi $224.00 (Barolo)
Giacomo
Conterno 1996 Monfortino $299.00 (Serralunga)
Aldo
Conterno 1990 Cicala $299.00 (Monforte)
Altare 1990 Arborina $225.00 (La Morra)
Marengo Marenda 1989 Cerequio $119.00 (La Morra)
Ceretto
1985 Bricco Rocche $219.00 (Castiglione)
Vintage Grand Cru Sampler (6): $1,385.00*
(1996 - 2001) Cru Barolo Sampler:
Bovio
1996 Barolo Vigna Gattera $60.21 (La Morra)
Paolo
Conterno 1997 Barolo Ginestra $95.00 (Monforte)
Ceretto
1998 Barolo Bricco $139.00 (Castiglione)
Massolino
1999 Barolo Margheria $45.00 (Serralunga)
Scavino
2000 Barolo Cannubi $87.00 (Barolo)
Aldo
Conterno 2001 Barolo Colonello $89.00 (Monforte)
1996-2001 Cru Barolo Sampler (6): $515.21*
*Free delivery in Manhattan
Click for more Barolo producers!
Father's
Day Gift Ideas from IWM
IWM offers a wide range of gifts at every price point, including
wine clubs, antique corkscrews, gift certificates, wine gift
baskets, tasting cases for the novice to the connoisseur,
educational books on wine and food, and more! Click below
to choose a gift from our website or call 212.473.2323 for
assistance and recommendations. We are also happy to include
gift cards and individual Producer & Tasting Notes to
enhance your gifts.
IWM GIFT IDEAS:
- Gift Baskets
- Wine Club Memberships
- Mixed Tasting Cases
- Antique Corkscrews
- Glassware
- Gift Certificates
- Wine Books
- Private Wine Tastings
- Customized Gifts
IWM's in-house Sommeliers and Portfolio Managers are available
to recommend an appropriate gift or to help you design a
customized gift. Visit our Gift Page or call 212.473.2323
to take care of all your gift-giving needs!
Click for IWM's Gift Center!
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