March
24, 2005
Brunello
2000 & Brunello Riserva 1999
In This Issue
A
Note from Sergio
While the buzz from the 1999 Brunello vintage is still ringing,
the 1999 Riservas are beginning to arrive accompanied by the
even riper 2000 normales. Given the frenzy around the 1999
normale, there can be no doubt that the media will award high
marks to many of these new releases. However, finding an exceptional
bottle of this noble wine that can balance finesse and power
will still demand strict guidelines in producer selection,
especially at the price, and you should not settle for less.
Today I am recommending a selection of 2000 Brunello and 1999
Brunello Riservas that represent quality in varying styles,
as I share my thoughts on Brunello and the 2000 vintage.
My position on the current state of Brunello di Montalcino
has not changed since my e-Letter in June. There is too
much abuse in the way of blending and wood vessel experimentation.
Another mistreatment you need to be aware of is the labeling
of “Riservas,” which should, in theory, represent
the best vineyard grapes from an exceptional year and requires
an additional year of ageing. Practice and theory often
differ here, and if you are paying the expense of a Riserva
you need to be confident in what you are buying. Also, consider
that only a handful of wineries choose to make a Riserva.
This adds to the confusion because the reality is that many
producers who do not make Riservas, such as Poggio di Sotto
and Cerbaiona, often show better quality in their regular
Brunellos than most producers do with their Riservas. You
can be assured that the Riservas selected below truly represent
the estate’s superior grapes and ageing -- I know
this through my recent visits to Montalcino.
As for vintage 2000, I believe solid producers can do great
things in fair to good vintages, just as I believe that
1998 was overlooked due to its positioning between the two
hyped vintages of 1997 and 1999. In 2000, Mother Nature
supplied the Boot with lots of sun and heat, which in the
northern region of Piemonte produced atypical wines that
showed brilliance from the masters of Nebbiolo; for Toscana,
these characteristics were compounded and the vintage demanded
effective vineyard management to avoid stressed vines and
damage from the heavy October rains. The winemakers who
practiced careful grape selection, low yields, and early
harvesting provided potential for excellent wines in this
good vintage. As a vintage indicator I looked to the Rosso
di Montalcino of 2000: from the right producers these were
some of the best Rossos to arrive at IWM. For selected 2000
Brunellos, the conditions mean a high concentration of fruit,
big and round on the palate with tell-tale notes of red
berries, black cherry, leather, tobacco, and sweet spice.
However, that would be simplifying a zone that offers of
a range of styles based on microclimate variables, vinification
technique, clonal mutations, and more. You will find the
best of each in the wines below, from the artisanal craftsmanship
in the powerful wines of Cerbaiona to the approachable softness
of Casanova di Neri and the sheer tannic elegance of Costanti.
To order these wines, please contact a Portfolio Manager
at 212.473.2323. Please note that all of these wines are
subject to future arrival dates. If you have not had the
opportunity to read about IWM's Fiorano offer (The Prince
and His Wine), click the link below - this is a life-changing
wine!
All the best,
Sergio
Click here for The Prince and His Wines!
Cerbaiona
and Sassetti
CERBAIONA
The estate was established with the 1981 vintage by former
pilot Diego Molinari, and from 1982 onwards they have performed
flawlessly. Daniel Thomases, the senior critic of Robert Parker’s
Wine Advocate, rates Cerbaiona as closest to Soldera - Case
Basse, the most expensive and sought after Brunello on the
market. And like Soldera, the wines are aged in the ‘old
style’ with Slavonian tonneaux instead of the fashionable
French barrique. The “Commander,” as this pilot
is known, creates a consistent style of pure elegance backed
with power. These impeccably made Brunellos are an IWM favorite.
Cerbaiona
2000 Brunello di Montalcino $94.70
LIVIO SASSETTI (PERTIMALI)
The Sassetti family has been working the land for many generations,
and winemaking has now been an important part of their production
for a century. Livio Sassetti inherited this tradition but
was displeased with the quality of fruit from the family
vineyards, so in the early 1970’s he followed his
ambition to Montalcino. Here he purchased land in the prized
Montosoli vineyards and established the Pertimali estate,
named for a cottage on the property. His sons Lorenzo and
Luciano now join him in the production of an elegant, complex
line of wines that resemble the great libations of Burgundy
yet are distinctively Tuscan. Note: The 1997 was the first
vintage to feature a redesigned label headlining Sassetti’s
name rather than the title of the estate.
Livio
Sassetti 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $98.95
Click here for recent offers from IWM!
Altesino
and Poggio Antico
ALTESINO
Altesino, which encircles the 14th-century Palazzo Altesi
in eastern Montalcino, is at the forefront of modern winemaking
yet maintains its elegance. Leading off the use of French
barriques for Brunello and the first to sell Brunello as ‘futures,’
Altesino was also a pioneer of Montalcino crus since 1975,
capitalizing on the excellent complexity and texture imparted
by the Montosoli vineyard. The Tricerchi family, after establishing
this illustrious winery, entrusted it in 2002 to Elisabetta
Gnudi Angelini, who also owns Tenuta Caparzo. Under Elisabetta
the Altesino estate encompasses 64 ha of which 27 are planted
to vines. With the help of Claudio Basla, Elisabetta has maintained
Altesino's quality tradition and continues to impress the
world with her fine, firm Brunellos that are made for aging.
Altesino
2000 Brunello di Montalcino $46.50
Altesino 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli $82.50
Altesino 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $88.50
POGGIO ANTICO
Located 50 kilometers south of Siena, Poggio Antico dates
back to the early 19th century; but vineyards weren't planted
here until the late 1970's, when construction of the cellar
began. What makes this estate truly unique is its elevation,
an impressive 450 meters above sea level. At this height,
steady breezes help to prevent fog and early frosts, also
cooling the grapes in hot vintages and drying them after
every rain, thus forestalling the development of mold. This
uncommon terroir has given the wines of Poggio Antico their
distinct earthy complexity and brilliance, artfully balancing
power and elegance. In 1984 the estate was purchased by
Giancarlo and Nuccia Gloder, who saw the unparalleled potential
of the location, and Paola, their youngest daughter, has
managed the estate since 1987. Paola is a firm believer
in the importance of the grapes and only allows the very
best fruit to survive her rigorous pruning, resulting in
high-quality wine from low yields.
Poggio
Antico 1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva $89.50
Poggio Antico 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.50
Click here for the assorted Brunello 2000 six-pack!
Costanti,
Colombini, and Lisini
CONTI COSTANTI
When Cosimo de’ Medici took control of Siena in 1559,
an indignant group of nobles preferred to leave their home
than to submit to their new lord: it was this emigration that
brought Conte Scipione Costanti to Colle al Matrichese in
eastern Montalcino. Generations later, Tito Costanti presented
two bottles of Brunello – labeled 1865 and 1869 –
at an exhibition of quality wine from the territories surrounding
Siena. The 20th century saw the first commercial Costanti
Brunello with Conte Emilio, who began production in the early
70’s, and in 1982 the estate lured his grandson Andrea
away from his studies in geology. Together with consultant
Vittorio Fiore, Andrea presents an extremely limited production
of stellar wines that display structure, finesse, spice, and
dark fruit.
Conti
Costanti 2000 Brunello Di Montalcino $59.00
DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI - IL CASATO
Donatella Cinelli Colombini is a major force in the world
of quality Italian wine and has spurred important advances
in enotourism. She creates a classic Brunello as well as
a Riserva and a Rosso di Montalcino; she also runs the Azienda
del Colle at Trequanda, where she produces Chianti Classico
Superiore, Orcia, Vin Santo, and a Super Tuscan. Donatella
is already grooming her daughter Violante as heir to the
business.
Donatella
C. Colombini 1999 Brunello Riserva $52.00
Donatella C. Colombini 1999 Brunello Riserva (1.5L) $108.00
Donatella C. Colombini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $44.50
LISINI
The history of Lisini dates back to the 16th century, when
the family inherited a tract of land in the hot southern
portion of Montalcino near Sant’Angelo in Colle. The
family cultivated Sangiovese and made tiny quantities of
wine that they consumed themselves. Not until 1967 did Lisini
first market its Brunello, but the quality was already promising
and the scale of production very low, with just 12 of their
154 ha planted to vines. The wine has reveled in public
acclaim since, and in 1975 Lisini was dubbed best of the
Brunello Consortium in a tasting at the enoteca Solci in
Milano. Eight years later the family brought in enologist
Franco Bernabei. The resultant bottlings are big and angular
yet elegant, and they express the best of dark fruit -style
Brunello.
Lisini
1999 Brunello 'Ugolaia' Riserva $89.00
Lisini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
Click here for assorted six-pack of Brunello Riserva!
Ciacci
Piccolomini and Casanova di Neri
CIACCI PICCOLOMINI
In 1985, Giuseppe Bianchini began his quest for quality. Moments
after the passing of Countess Piccolomini, Giuseppe learned
that he, the sole employee who passionately cared about her
vines, inherited the vast Piccolomini wine estate. Evidence
of his appreciation and commitment to the Piccolomini legend
can be found in the glass – each wine is a tribute to
the gracious Countess. Highly regarded palates consistently
rank the Ciacci Piccolomini wines in the top 10th percentile
– with good reason. Giuseppe believes his strict adherence
to sustainable growing practices has significantly contributed
to the vibrancy of fruit and the depth of complexity in his
wines over the years. Without doubt, these wines speak of
consistent quality and exhibit Tuscan typicity crafted in
a modern style. Here is your first chance to purchase the
estate’s latest releases.
Ciacci
Piccolomini 1999 Brunello Riserva $89.50
Ciacci Piccolomini 2000 Brunello (375ml) $32.00
Ciacci Piccolomini 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $49.99
Ciacci Piccolomini 2000 Brunello (1.5L) $109.00
CASANOVA DI NERI
Casanova di Neri was founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri and
is now run by his son Giacomo. The estate covers 36 ha of
vineyards in the southeastern Montalcino sites of Pietradonice,
Le Cetine, Cerretalto, and Fiesole; vinification is distinctively
modern but carefully avoids excessive modernization that
might jeopardize quality. Assisted by consultant Carlo Ferrini,
Giacomo perpetually examines his cellars and 36 ha of vineyards
in search of potential improvements, and the inky results
are fine expressions of the land with good structure and
soft oak.
Casanova
di Neri 2000 Brunello 'Tenuta Nuova' $59.95
Casanova di Neri 2000 Brunello 'Tenuta Nuova' (1.5L) $139.00
Click here for more Brunello producers!
Camigliano
and La Poderina
CAMIGLIANO
Resting on the eastern outskirts of the Montalcino district,
Camigliano boasts a rich heritage. Lying partially beneath
the master house, at least a portion of the winery was built
at the same time as the old boundary walls, around 1250-1280.
Redeveloped between 1600 and 1700, it hasn't been altered
since. Facing north, the cellar's vaulted stone ceiling ensures
constant cool temperatures. Here, famed consulting enologist
Lorenzo Landi crafts stylish wines that merit rapt attention,
especially their Brunello. Each one showcases the estate’s
tell-tale characteristics of mineral and cedar, and is vinified
from rich fruit. The Gualto is a result of diligent grape
selection from prime sites in the best positions of the estate,
and the 1998 vintage marked its debut.
Camigliano
1999 Brunello di Montalcino Gualto $69.00
Camigliano 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $44.50
LA PODERINA
La Poderina, a 20-hectare estate in the southeastern Castelnuovo
dell’Abate subzone of Montalcino, was bought in 1988
by Saiagricola, a subsidiary of Italian insurance giant
SAI. This corporate empire may control numerous companies,
but it is known for strict insistence on quality and offers
very reasonable prices for the excellent bottlings they
produce at La Poderina. In fact, over more than a decade
of meticulous research on the terroir of Castelnuovo dell’Abate,
this winery has tweaked its techniques to extract the best
possible wine from this outstanding land. Under Lorenzo
Landi the estate enhances tradition with the best of modern
innovation, creating elegant, accessible wines with flawless
balance.
La
Poderina 2000 Brunello di Montalcino $54.95
Click here for more on the 1999 vintage!
|
