Poggio
di Sotto
Poggio di Sotto’s founder, Piero Palmucci (a former
shipping executive), is one of those producers who operates
most often behind the label—with consultant Giulio
Gambelli (the eminent name behind the most desired of
Montalcino’s majestic stars—Soldera), meriting
all the cover action—despite the fact that his
perfectionist streak positions him at the forefront of
the production process. Palmucci has always pursued an
academic approach to viticulture and vinification, assiduously
monitoring various manifestations in both the cellar
and vineyard. While he necessarily conducted his initial
vintage of 1991 without much empirical evidence, he was
vigilant in monitoring the wine’s evolution, carefully
assessing its maturation in large new oak barrels.
This disciplined approach was hardly confined to Palmucci’s
early efforts. In 1997, he collaborated with the University
of Milan in order to plant new vineyards (constituting
seven hectares), instituting an intensive study regime
dedicated to identifying the appropriate clones for the
site in question, as well as the planting systems and
vine density most conducive to the terroir. (In 1999,
a three-hectare vineyard was added to the holdings, raising
Poggio di Sotto’s total vineyard acreage to 12
hectares.) These assiduous efforts in the vineyard are
maximized through rigorous pruning and an intense process
of selection. The former is conducted when the grapes
are green in color and arranged in small bunches. This
is followed up by the latter effort, during which the
grape quantity is reduced by 50 to 60 percent, rendering
the production of the estate necessarily minute. Cellar
operations are no less exacting in Poggio di Sotto’s
gravity flow winery, a classic context that reflects
the integration of traditional principles and modern
accoutrements. This merger of philosophies, in fact,
characterizes the estate’s overall operations.
Adamant about color correctness in Brunello, Palmucci
believes that dark Brunellos are disingenuous—wines
that cannot possibly be pure-varietal expressions. Thus,
a Poggio di Sotto Brunello visually corroborates this
stance, exhibiting a medium-red garnet color upon release.
It also offers a formidable tannic structure and high
level of acidity. While delivering a traditional character,
achieved through extended maceration in wooden oak and
aging in Slavonian oak barrels, several contemporary
enhancements ensure the integrity of the wine’s
condition.
For the 2001 vintage, Palmucci released a special bottling—Il
Decennale—marking the culminating effort of his
first phase as a winemaker. Il Decennale represents,
in effect, a viticultural thesis, capturing and celebrating
Palmucci’s profound and intimate understanding
of the old vines and ancient Sangiovese clones that he
utilized to constitute the foundation of vineyards he
established in the late 1980s, complementing their character
with careful and astute site selection in Castelnuovo
dell’Abate. The first and last of its kind, Il
Decennale also constitutes the estate’s Riserva
for 2001, as it was aged in accordance with the stipulations
governing the Riserva designation.
|