Le
Macchiole
You hear about Sassicaia and Tignanello pretty often,
the first and second productions, respectively, in the
Super-Tuscan category (though some dispute that order).
However, the aftermath’s spate of Super-Tuscan
releases tends to obscure the producers who not only
sustained the category’s momentum, but ensured
that Bolgheri would continue to thrive through productions
that became as eagerly sought-after, if not more so,
than the originals. Eugenio Campolmi’s Le Macchiole
estate was one of the first to make the burgeoning list,
as well as one of the most significant successors.
In 1975, the late Campolmi founded Le Macchiole with
the purchase of a vineyard in Bolgheri. Although he originally
intended his efforts to be purely recreational, he soon
grew desirous of engaging in serious wine production.
Lacking any background in viticulture, he brought in
oenologist Vittorio Fiore on a consulting basis in 1987
and also sought the expertise and advice of Pier Mario
di Grattamacco (another of the early post-Sassicaia pioneers)
and Michele Satta, with whom he forged a particularly
strong relationship. As Fiore did not satisfy Campolmi’s
efforts to develop an intimate and thorough understanding
of the winemaking process, Campolmi turned to another
consultant in 1991, effectively launching the estate’s
transition into the upper echelon of Italian wine.
Ironically, the one he turned to—Luca d’Attoma—isn’t
exactly the accommodating type. He likes things done
a certain way, and he doesn’t take too well to
not getting what he wants. As a result, he’s broken
things off with many a winery and been relieved of his
duties as well. At one point, he was the mind behind
two of Italy and the world’s most prominent Merlots—Redigaffi
and Messorio. Things didn’t quite work out with
Tua Rita, the home of Redigaffi, but d’Attoma’s
relationship with Le Macchiole has been long-term—a
collaboration celebrated to greatest effect, perhaps,
in Messorio, one of Italy’s most profound and prestigious
Merlots. When Campolmi passed away in 2002, his wife,
Cinzia Merli, assumed direction of the estate. Determined
to retain the caliber of the wines and their reputation,
Merli retained d’Attoma. Part of an unofficial,
but nevertheless widely recognized clique that includes
Redigaffi, Masseto, Galatrona, and Percarlo, Messorio
provides a compelling testament to Toscana’s affinity
for the varietal; these bottlings, in fact, often merit
comparison to the wines of Bordeaux’s Pomerol region.
It’s not just Merlot, however, that distinguishes
Le Macchiole. While many Bolgheri producers root their
production in the Bordeaux paradigm, Le Macchiole has
established a niche in the single-varietal genre. It’s
also gone outside the latter’s primary sphere,
choosing to showcase Cabernet Franc in its Paleo bottling.
Paleo’s gone through a few phases—a Sangiovese–based
blend when first produced, Cabernet soon came to dominate
in Bordeaux-style fashion. Beginning with the ’01
vintage, however, Paleo departed from the blending regimen,
delivering a formidable expression of the estate’s
work with Cabernet Franc. Indeed, Cabernet Franc does
quite well for itself in Bolgheri, as the warm climate
enables it to sufficiently ripen, thereby avoiding the
greenness that it tends to exhibit in cooler areas and
enabling it to achieve complexity. That special something
between Bolgheri and Cabernet Franc reaches particular
heights at Le Macchiole, where it displays a graphite
character and spicy pepper.
Le Macchiole goes further outside the mainstream in
its single-vineyard Syrah—Scrio— one of Italy’s
most accomplished monovarietal Syrahs. Inspired by the
esteemed wines of the Northern Rhône—specifically
those of Côte-Rôtie—this expression
was a particular passion of Le Macchiole’s late
founder, Eugenio Campolmi. Scrio represents minute yields
from two vineyard sources and is known for capturing
the essence of the Syrah varietal, particularly its classic
notes of camphor, blackberry, licorice, and tar.
The house also produces two blends, Paleo Bianco (Sauvignon
Blanc & Chardonnay) and Bolgheri Rosso, which was
introduced in the 2004 vintage, taking the place of the
estate’s eponymous bottling, Macchiole Rosso. The
latter, which essentially constituted a “second” wine
for the estate, was Sangiovese-based, with varying combinations
of other Bordeaux grapes comprising the remainder. Merli
instituted the replacement, desiring to offer a bottling
that afforded greater accessibility. Merlot took the
lead to effect this stylistic objective, accompanied
by smaller percentages of Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese,
and Syrah.
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