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Wines by Pieve
Santa Restituta
(Gaja) |
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Pieve
Santa Restituta (Gaja)
Times were tough in Piemonte in the early ’90s,
as the area had been challenged by a succession of
less-than-stellar vintages (prior, of course, to the
six-year streak that ran from ’95 to ’01). It
started Gaja thinking about terroirs outside Piemonte,
particularly as he was regularly courted by admirers
seeking his involvement in joint ventures. But Gaja
wasn’t going to sign onto something that won
cachet solely through his presence. Having galvanized
Piemonte with modern techniques and illegitimate grapes,
Gaja was looking for some established ground to grow
on. Toscana’s Montalcino zone held the allure
he was looking for, as well as what he considered a
profound connection to Piemonte’s wine culture.
Most significantly, an estate by the name of Pieve
Santa Restituta needed someone just like him….
This was the opinion, at any rate, of Roberto Bellini,
who had purchased the historic property in 1972 with
his wife, Franca. Although they invested in new vineyards
and cultivated those in existence, receiving favorable
acknowledgments, they believed that the full
potential of the land could be realized only with the
involvement of a formidable talent. There was certainly
some substantive history to honor here. A group of
Christians fleeing persecution had established the
property in the 4th century, erecting a church— Pieve
di Santa Restituta—in honor of the eponymous
martyr, Santa Restituta. Documents establish that wine
(specifically, red) had been produced on estate grounds
as early as the 12th century.
Upon Gaja’s formally entering into partnership
with Bellini in 1994, the estate’s former name
was reinstated (the Bellinis had changed it to Chiesa
di Santa Restituta) in order to reflect the historical
significance of the property. To a certain degree, it
also signified the forthcoming transfer of creative control.
Although Bellini attended to the ’04 vintage, he
didn’t stick around much longer after that. Gaja
assumed full creative control the very vintage thereafter,
retaining the estate’s focus on two bottlings exclusively,
the multisite Brunello Rennina and the single-vineyard
Brunello Sugarille. The latter is regarded as the more
structured of the two bottlings, given the site’s
propitious positioning, soil composition (calcareous
clay), and southern exposure. Both receive one year of
aging in barrique followed by an equivalent period in
large oak casks. Thereafter, they are refined in bottle
for a period of two years prior to release.
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