Altesino
When Altesino general manager Claudio Basla directed
Altesino’s inaugural vintage of 1975, he didn’t
know much about wine. Montalcino wasn’t too savvy,
either: in its impoverished state, the sweet Moscadello
wine virtually constituted the extent of its viticultural
prowess. Both Altesino and Montalcino, however, were
on the verge of significant transformation….
With the help of consulting enologist Pietro Rivella,
Basla—whose boss, Giulio Consonno, had founded
Altesino in 1972— began honing the skills that
he would utilize to craft profound expressions of
Brunello di Montalcino. Montalcino itself was assisted
by major outside investments, enabling the commune
to move into the upper echelon of both Italy and the
world’s winemaking regions. Altesino guided
this period of awakening, crafting Brunellos that
proffered a genuine expression of Sangiovese, yet
modified the austerity typifying the wines at the
time. That said, however, Altesino’s protocol
is rooted fundamentally in a traditionalist orientation,
captured most demonstratively in its preference for
Slavonian oak—the sole medium utilized in the
vinification of the estate’s Brunello normale
and riserva bottlings. In fact, when current Altesino
owner Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini acquired the estate
in 2002, she was committed to maintaining its identity
as a traditional producer, restricting her changes
to the replanting of the vineyards and establishment
of a new cellar. The latter features the estate’s
first stainless steel tanks, which made their debut
in the 2007 vintage. Prior to this time, Altesino
conducted fermentation in fiberglass, a medium that
required Basla to rigorously finesse an approximate
constant temperature through grueling physical machinations.
(Angelini also owns the Caparzo estate and properties
in both Maremma and Chianti Classico.)
Thus, she has left Montosoli and Basla pretty much
to their own well-honed and astute devices. (Rivella
continues to assist Basla, along with Paolo Caciorgna.)
The former is Altesino’s flagship, the bottling
that effectually introduced Montalcino to the cru
concept. Situated slightly north of Montalcino, this
esteemed site enjoys a substantive degree of sunlight
during the daytime, a provision that is complemented
by nightfall’s cooler disposition. This feature
operates in cooperation with microclimate and soil
to produce the particular synergy that defines Montosoli.
While all are integral components of the overall impact,
none assumes a discernible lead in the opinion of
Basla—their effort is truly cooperative and
all of a piece—a case that seems made for that
ever elusive word—terroir.
While Angelini instituted significant replanting
of the land Altesino possesses in three other sites—with
a view to ensuring that the best clonal material was
being utilized—the Sangiovese clone inhabiting
Montosoli remains the same. This clone possesses a
truly insular nature, demonstrating an exclusive affinity
with Montosoli and failing to distinguish itself outside
the cru’s parameters. Barrique makes a modest
appearance in Montosoli’s aging regimen, although
Altesino, as indicated above, is essentially wedded
to Slavonian oak. That said, barrique makes a pretty
substantive contribution to Altesino’s Super-Tuscan
roster, which includes Alte d’Altesi, a Sangiovese/Cabernet
blend; Borgo, a monovarietal Cabernet; Rosso di Altesino,
a Sangiovese-based blend; and Palazzo Altesi, a limited-production
Sangiovese that is named for the estate’s 15th-century
villa, the estate’s signature edifice.
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