IWM > Recent Offers

Magnum Masseto

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 12:00 EST

Over the last several years, Toscana has emerged as a bastion of high-calibre Merlot, the focus of our above discussion. Foremost among these names is Masseto, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia’s monovarietal Merlot. Despite having debuted only in the 1986 vintage, Masseto is working on establishing the epic mystique of the storied Ch�teau P�trus. The simple fact is that Masseto’s past—however recent—provides just as compelling a testament to the wine's splendor as the genesis of P�trus.

First of all, there’s the terroir, or in this case, the territorio. Like its French counterpart, Masseto is derived from soils that are predominantly clay, Merlot’s preferred conduit. It also derives from highly selective plots, Masseto’s eponymous cru (16 acres) and the minute Vina Vecchia plot (1 acre). The distinct ground constituting the Masseto Vineyard is further demarcated into three distinct sections, each of which contributes a unique dimension to the finished wine: Masseto Junior provides the base; Masseto Medio or Centrale contributes tannins and strength; and Masseto Alto imbues the wine with its aromatic signature. Both Pètrus and Masseto are known for a meticulous approach to viticulture, and Masseto’s is captured most arrestingly, perhaps, in its treatment of those three plots: Each is harvested at a different stage, an approach that is fundamental to the development of Masseto’s character, as are the varying ages of the vines.

Lastly, there’s the Merlot. The legend of P�trus was essentially born through Jean-Pierre Moueix's passion for the wines of St-�milion and Pomerol and rooted in the special affinity he perceived between Merlot and the land. Likewise when we speak of Masseto, we invariably reference Lodovico Antinori, but the fact is that there’s another eminent figure in this tale of territorio—Andr� Tchelistcheff, one of the patriarchs of California Cabernet Sauvignon. It was Tchelistcheff who convinced Lodovico to establish a plot dedicated to Merlot. P�trus may have more vintages in its history, but an innate cachet—a genetic makeup, if you will—accounts for why Jean-Fran�ois Moueix regards them as twins. The 2001 and 2004 listed above are among the great vintages designed for longevity, but herein we present some magnum selections with age that deliver on the promise of that special plot.

* Limited Availablity—Subject to Remaining
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Tua Rita: Redigaffi

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 12:00 EST

You would expect that the producer of Redigaffi, one of the world’s most renowned Merlots, would craft that sought-after bottling in surroundings that signify and complement the wine’s prestige. You would expect, to be honest, a certain air of grandeur, a certain imposing reserve and majesty. Tua Rita, however, has resolutely kept itself outside that realm. In fact, so modest and unassuming is the “estate” that it might strike you as the home of, at the very most, a house of local importance—an impression that is undoubtedly heightened by the medieval origins of Suvereto, the town in which Tua Rita is situated.

Indeed, that’s how Tua Rita started out—Redigaffi was a humble family winemaking project conducted in a tiny, rustic cellar. Though these passionate vignerons weren’t seeking commercial or critical recognition, it took only a few perfect ratings to turn a wine of disarmingly simple origins into a staple of the cult genre, a bottling that is not only a testament to the Maremma’s affinity for Merlot, but emblematic of genuine artisanal craft and spirit. That spirit prevails today at Tua Rita, most notably in the persona of owner Rita Tua, who founded the estate with partner Virgilio Bisti in 1984. Seemingly more a denizen of the kitchen than of the cellar, Rita Tua exudes the classic warmth that is the provenance of the Italian grandmother; the palpable human quality defining the estate is channeled through her ingratiating vitality.

And, of course, we can imagine that several of the estate’s wines received their debuts in Rita Tua’s kitchen. So, it only stands to reason that taken collectively, these wines cover Maremma’s stylistic spectrum, creating a virtual album of wines to mark all the days in the life of a family, from the modest to the grand, from the everyday Rosso dei Notri to the special occasion Redigaffi.

Tua Rita 2005 Redigaffi…$269.00**‡
Despite the fact that the estate received perfect scores from the critics for both its 1997 and 2000 Redigaffis, little has changed since the first of these provocative and untamed wines threw open Tua Rita’s little cellar door to the world, sending Redigaffi far beyond its village. For one thing, production remains infinitesimally, maddeningly minute: There were only about 400 cases of the 2000 Redigaffi produced. In the 2005 vintage, production totaled 680 cases, of which a mere 50 to 100 cases will make it to the States.

2005 was a winemaker’s vintage, but it reached its pinnacle in the hands of Tua Rita and the Maremma zone. While other areas of Toscana were struggling with significant periods of rainfall during harvest, the Maremma experienced only sporadic showers, with drying facilitated by the area's warmer weather. And what about Tua Rita’s part in 2005? The 2005 Redigaffi derives from low-yielding, densely planted vines, a lengthy maceration period of 27 days, and a lavish new-barrique aging regimen of 12 to 16 months. The estate's rigorous cellar techniques in concert with the positioning of the vineyard helped raised dry extraction levels (the ratio of grape solids to juice, providing for enhanced concentration and texture) to a level higher than figures turned in by eminent estates such as Château Pétrus; in '05, that extract is particularly palpable. Given all that’s behind the 2005 Redigaffi, it’s no surprise that this vintage doesn't veer too wildly from its immediate predecessor, the product of what is widely considered to be a modern classic. It is sophisticated sensuality, an elixir of deeply writ black and blue fruits, incisive minerality, spices both savory and sweet, and the succulent influence of perfectly proportioned oak.

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Tua Rita: Beyond Redigaffi

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 12:00 EST

Tua Rita 2005 Giusto di Notri…$85.00**
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot)

An exemplar of the producer's philosophy and stylistic orientation, Giusto di Notri—named after the eponymous vineyard and the patron saint of Suvereto, San Giusto—is the estate flagship. But, like Redigaffi, Giusto di Notri has gone far beyond its immediate environs and become the foremost icon of the second generation of Super-Tuscans. While a Bordeaux-style blend, in ’05, Giusto isn’t Bordeaux-minded, nor is it blending to satisfy the whims of the vintage. It clearly thinks outside the vintage, harkening back, in effect, to its striking and complete ’04 performance. The classic nature of ’04 appears in Giusto’s layered flavor spectrum, capturing each individual varietal even though it initially seems too perfectly integrated to give individual attention to any one grape. But this wine does just that—particularly in the signature herbaceous contribution of Cabernet Franc, enhanced by notions of pencil lead and violets. Coming in under the 2,000-case mark in ’05, this vintage is a model Giusto. The product of a first-growth Tuscan estate, it pleases the palate now while promising the collector rewards to come.

Tua Rita 2005 Perlato del Bosco…$42.99**
(Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon)
It started its career as pure Sangiovese, and it showed well for itself by capturing the grape in rare, extroverted form. Though a powerhouse without the assistance of the international set, Perlato got off the monovarietal track and brought in some Cabernet Sauvignon for the 2003 vintage. Now a few vintages into its role as a blend, Perlato hasn’t looked back, least of all in ’05, which shifts from the high-powered ’04 model into a suave, streamlined style, artfully driven by persuasive, delineated aromatics. The Cabernet, as you might expect, doesn’t just go along for the ride here—flavors of cassis weave this wine in and out of Sangiovese’s red fruit spectrum, amplifying the wine’s body, while a penetrating minerality drives straight through the middle. A mere 1,250 cases were produced of this perfect-for-the-weekend entertainment wine.

Tua Rita 2006 Rosso dei Notri Frascolla…$26.54**
(Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon)
Often considered an introduction to the house style, Rosso dei Notri may be Tua Rita’s everyday wine, but there’s nothing elementary or textbook about Notri’s vivacious and bold persona nor, for that matter, its surprisingly modest production level—3,500 cases. Sangiovese takes the lead here and for good reason: Tua Rita’s famed consulting enologist, Stefano Chioccioli, favors Sangiovese and believes that the variety has truly come into its own with Toscana’s maturation. You’ll sense that preference and development here in the wine’s sublime texture and density. This is no light and easy quaffer that gets you in the doorway of this famed estate. This wine takes you all the way into the heart of Tua Rita’s passionate and inspiring story, and what’s more, it provides an irresistible preview of the quality of the highly anticipated 2006 vintage. Sourced from proprietor Stefano Frascolla’s (the son-in-law of Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti) tiny 6.5-acre estate (which he purchased in 1997), this Notri carries all the spirit of an entertainer in a daily pour.

** Indicates prearrival
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Toscana: Merlot�s Finest Terroir or Territorio? Maremma Takes on Pomerol

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 12:00 EST

Pétrus (95–100%). Le Pin (90–100%). L’Eglise-Clinet (80%). Trotanoy (90%). It is through eminent names such as these that Pomerol (along with the neighboring Saint-�milion) has set the benchmark for Merlot—a standard that many regard as having no equal. The reality, however, is that the great Merlots of the Right Bank are often blends (as indicated by the percentages noted above) that bear stratospheric prices. Nevertheless, they carry a mystique and renown that overshadows other expressions of Merlot.

Enter Toscana—specifically, the southern region of the Maremma and, to be exact, Bolgheri. Here, the coastal Merlot stars of Redigaffi, Masseto, and Messorio are joined by the inland Galatrona, La Ricolma, and L’Apparita. These are pinnacle monovarietal expressions of Merlot, produced in minute quantities that powerfully evoke painstaking artisanal craftsmanship. Take a look at Pétrus. On average, it turns out a 4,000-case production. In contrast, Redigaffi and Messorio typically produce 600 cases. Even Masseto, at 2,000 cases, is substantially lower. (To put these quantities in perspective, one need only consider Château Margaux’s 20,000-plus case figure.) Likewise, Bordeaux wines are often quadruple the price of Italy’s iconic Merlots. Similar to the Pomerol cult wines, these Italian Merlots have distinguished themselves by delivering substantive and complex expressions that offer lushness in concert with exceptional structure and ageworthiness.

The issue isn’t about who makes better Merlot, but rather, it is why the serious collector should see these wines as paragons of Merlot. The critics brought attention to Redigaffi when they awarded the 1997 and 2000 vintages a perfect score (100), giving similar marks to Messorio and Masseto along the way. However, the established bias for and pedigree associated with many French wines remain powerful forces in the decision process of collectors, many of whom will often consider investing in Pomerol before even looking at the Maremma. If you are an enthusiast who is point-driven, then you need to acknowledge that selected Italian Merlots are outperforming the Pomerol classics. If you are someone who believes in territorio, as we do, then there is no better testament to these Merlots’ shared stature than the statement made by Jean-François Moueix at a comparative tasting of Masseto and Pétrus in 2004: “I don’t know if Masseto is a brother of Pétrus, but it might be the twin in Italy. What we have tasted today is the summit of quality red wines…This is when you really learn about the greatness of wine.”

The Maremma Takes on Pomerol Sampler
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2001 Masseto
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2004 Masseto
Tua Rita 2000 Redigaffi**
Tua Rita 2005 Redigaffi**
Le Macchiole 2003 Messorio
Petrolo 2005 Galatrona**
Maremma Six-Bottle Sampler�$2,971.02**�
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‡ Free Delivery in Manhattan

New: Antinori 2005 Tignanello

Fri, 15 Aug 2008 10:45:00 EST

In many ways, Piero Antinori’s Tignanello represents the very best of the Super-Tuscan movement: a commitment to honoring traditional methods of winemaking combined with a desire to innovate when innovation creates a better wine. Grown in the Chianti Classico zone, and comprised primarily of Sangiovese (85%) and small parts Cabernets Sauvignon (10%) and Franc (5%), the Super-Tuscan Tignanello tends to the more Tuscan end of the spectrum, even if it and its maker are pretty much synonymous with the Super-Tuscan movement. Just as the Antinori estate has done for 26 generations, the grapes used to make Tignanello are hand harvested and processed with the utmost care. Ever since Tignanello’s inaugural vintage in 1971, Antinori has restricted his production of Tignanello to only the best vintages, and his vinification techniques have included malolactic fermentation, aging in barrique for one year, followed by an additional year of aging in bottle. However, in 2004 Antinori made a change to the regimen; he began fermenting and aging the component wines separately, assembling the wine just before aging in bottle.

This last change certainly made an impact in the much-heralded 2004 vintage of Tignanello, but its impact will be even more apparent in the newly released 2005. Unlike 2004, which had more or less ideal growing conditions, 2005 presented climatic challenges; the season started several weeks earlier with temperatures that were slightly warmer than previous vintages, and ended after heavy rains just before harvest, thus delaying it. While many lesser producers are feeling the after effects of the less-than-stellar conditions of 2005, Antinori is not. In fact, the 2005 illustrates that it’s the winemaker—not the weather—that makes a wine. 2004’s Tignanello may be the stuff of which legends are made, but the 2005 Tignanello is aromatic, approachable, and exceptional. Though it could drink for another ten-to-fifteen years, this Tignanello has the ripe dark fruits, smoky overtones, and piquant minerality to induce you to enjoy it right now.

Guado al Tasso and Solaia: Limited Offerings and Late Vintages

Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:00:00 EST

Guado al Tasso
Representing yet another highly exclusive IWM offering, covering the career of Guado al Tasso—the flagship of Antinori's Bolgheri estate—from the 1995 vintage to the current release.

Viticultural genius truly seems to run in the Antinori and della Rocchetta families. Their Bolgheri triptych—Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia: Mario Incisa della Rocchetta); Tenuta dell’Ornellaia (Ornellaia & Masseto: Lodovico Antinori); and Guado al Tasso (Guado al Tasso: Piero Antinori)—makes a powerful evocation of a wine dynasty. While Piero was technically the last of the family to enter Bolgheri’s Maremma, Guado al Tasso formally established his claim to the Maremma when he inherited the estate from his mother, Carlotta della Gherardesca Antinori, whose family had a long-standing presence in the region. It is also significant to note that Sassicaia, the premiere Super-Tuscan, effectually served as the philosophical foundation of Antinori’s Tignanello, for brothers Piero and Lodovico (prior to their split in 1985) had sent Giacomo Tachis to direct the vinification of Sassicaia. Their experience directly informed Tignanello’s idea and validated the application of the Bordeaux model to Italian wine.

The portfolio of Guado al Tasso, meaning Badger’s Ford, includes Scalabrone, a Sangiovese-Merlot-Syrah blend; a pure-varietal Vermentino; and the eponymous flagship, Guado al Tasso, a Cabernet-Merlot-Syrah blend. The ’03 vinification of Guado al Tasso (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 15% Syrah) reflects an incisive accommodation of the vintage’s character, and it enables the wine to provide a genuine articulation of the region and its varietal constituents. The palate delivers substantive cherry fruit, enriched by secondary notes of coffee and dark chocolate. The structure is attuned to the wine’s flavor profile, ensuring a balanced and complex expression.

Solaia

Solaia represents Giacomo Tachis’s creative engagement with Piero Antinori. While its fellow portfolio member, Tignanello, may have introduced the eponymous estate, Solaia has never been in the shadows of its predecessor. Its initial appearance (1978) enjoyed only limited release in its native land, and the original composition—80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc—was replicated in the ’79. In subsequent vintages, however, Franc’s contribution was reduced, and ’82’s introduction of Sangiovese (20%) essentially rendered Solaia the inverse of Tignanello. After a series of slight alterations reflecting the nuances of individual vintages, Solaia’s identity emerged as today’s current blend—75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese, and 5% Cabernet Franc.

Like the Tignanello, Solaia is derived exclusively from its namesake vineyard, Solaia—meaning sunny one—a 10-hectare, southwest-facing site that is comprised principally of marl soils and albarese rock. It is produced exclusively in vintages of high caliber.

Guado al Tasso and Solaia: Limited Offerings and Late Vintages

Fri, 15 Aug 2008 12:00:00 EST

26 Mags of DRC or 800+ Bottles of Italy's Icons?: Two Takes on Completing a Wine Collection

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 09:00:00 EST

Here’s the question: 26 Magnums of the most sought-after wines in the world, or 800+ bottles of Italy’s finest wines? A few weeks back, IWM featured these 26 DRC magnums from the historic 2005 vintage in Burgundy. The $400,000 parcel sold and at that amount the wine is more likely to be an investment than a collector's obsession. Rare wines have recently been shown to outperform most traditional commodities, and these large formats will certainly reward an investment objective.

But at IWM, we also consider this investment from another angle—namely, what the individual could receive by investing half of that $400,000 in Italian selections. Just the other week our Cellar Management Division created a proposal for a client who was looking to obtain a complete cellar of Italy’s Finest Wines (we’ve included the proposal here). The list we developed included a small portion of mature vintage wines that are ready for consumption today, but it was primarily comprised of wines meant to be enjoyed over the next three decades. The list began with jeroboams from our Granbussia Millenium package, as well as the Barolo legends-to-be from the structured vintages of 1996, 1999, 2001, and 2004. These exceptional vintages formed the foundation of the list, and to complete it, we added a spectrum of Italy’s quality wines—Barbaresco, Amarone, Brunello di Montalcino, Super-Tuscans, Taurasi, and Montepulciano. The first column ran through legendary producers such as Gaja, Giacosa, Mascarello, Sandrone, Antinori, Scavino, Biondi-Santi, Soldera, Valentini, Fiorano, and Mastroberardino, while the second column focused on the iconic labels, including Sassicaia, Masseto, Solaia, Redigaffi, Case Basse di Soldera, Monfortino, and Granbussia. More than 800 bottles from Italy’s greatest vintages, producers, and wines featured in our debut Italy’s Finest Wines proposal.

Again, we pose the question: 26 Magnums of the most sought-after wine in the world or 800+ bottles of Italy’s finest wines? There is no right or wrong answer here. Each individual has different objectives and tastes. And whether the budget is $500 or $500,000, most enthusiasts and collectors need help finding and purchasing the wines most appropriate for them. Fulfilling this need is the focus of both IWM in general and our special Cellar Management division in particular. If you are interested in learning more about our program or receiving a customized cellar proposal, please contact us at 212.473.2323, x101.

Barolo's Vintage Streak: Via Mascarello

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 09:00:00 EST

The late Bartolo Mascarello’s influence upon Sergio and the IWM staff arguably has been unequaled by that of any other producer. Thus, while other merchants have developed an intense preoccupation with the 2004 Barolo vintage, we’ve taken a step outside the frenzy to bring you a rare opportunity to taste the wines of the late Bartolo Mascarello and those of his daughter, Maria-Teresa, in an exclusive context—the historic Barolo Vintage Streak (1996–2001). This is one of the most important samplers in the history of the wine region, and IWM presents it with solo provenance.

In Passion on the Vine, Sergio recounts his first meeting with Mascarello, an occasion that transformed his entire relationship with wine. While he entered Mascarello’s unassuming office with cast-iron confidence, he left humbled and irrevocably changed. In the space of one solitary encounter, Sergio came to better understand not only what great wine was, but also that great wine was ultimately unknowable. As Sergio writes in his memoir, “This was the magnificence of Bartolo’s wine. It was constantly morphing, evolving, impossible to know entirely. You could experience it an infinite number of times and you would never be able to master it.”

This dedicated Mascarello sampler is of monumental import. These wines are, on both a fundamental and philosophical level, about patience, placing them far outside the frenetic, New York–minute world of tasting notes and scores. Indeed, on that fateful day Sergio was in a rush to leave, to move on to the next meeting, to find the next great wine. He was internally bursting at the time delay between the wine’s being poured and the act of “get[ting] down to drinking it.” Mascarello didn’t indulge Sergio’s worldly pressure, providing, in effect, an illustration of how to approach his wine. Mascarello’s Barolo is not simply a wine that demands patience over a long-term cellaring period; it demands patience once it reaches the glass. When Mascarello and Sergio finally begin drinking that’78 Barolo—from a bottle that had been opened two weeks prior—it was not what it had been when first poured. The wine’s profound change removed Sergio from all “wordly concerns,” placing him in a “labyrinth in which nothing made sense.”

We invite you into this very labyrinth through our Mascarello tribute that includes four of Piemonte’s heralded Vintage Streak years, in addition to the 2003 cuvée. We recommend that you accompany this purchase with a copy of Passion on the Vine, where you’ll find the complete account of Sergio’s historic meeting.

Le Macchiole Bolgheri: Bolgheri's Affair with Bordeaux

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 09:00:00 EST

Listen closely to an in-the-know collector’s discussion about Château Pétrus, and you’ll invariably hear comparisons being made to a few Italian wines—Masseto, Italy’s most famous Merlot, and, in certain knowledge exchanges, Messorio, the flagship monovarietal Merlot from Le Macchiole. Although one of the original Super-Tuscan estates, Le Macchiole has stayed on the outskirts of the limelight, eschewing the physical grandeur of its Tuscan neighbors, while nevertheless generating the nearly obsessive interest of astute collectors. Moreover, Le Macchiole has truly created its own niche in the somewhat densely populated Super-Tuscan category by choosing to communicate its intimate grasp of terroir through pure-varietal bottlings.

In 2001, Le Macchiole took Paleo, one of its signature wines, into monovarietal territory, delivering a formidable expression of the estate’s work with Cabernet Franc. Indeed, Cabernet Franc does quite well for itself in Bolgheri, for the warm climate enables it to sufficiently ripen, thereby avoiding the greenness that it tends to exhibit in cooler areas and enabling it to achieve complexity. That special something between Bolgheri and Cabernet Franc reaches particular heights at Le Macchiole, where it displays a graphite dimension and spicy pepper. For contrast, we’ve included the 2000 Paleo—the wine’s final vintage as a Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) that’s drinking tremendously right now. Le Macchiole’s Scrio has always been a solo affair—a single-vineyard Syrah inspired by the wines of Côte-Rôtie (a passion of Le Macchiole’s late founder, Eugenio Campolmi). Scrio represents minute yields from two vineyard sources, and a rigorous selection process that produced a mere 400 cases in 2004.

To complete our house sampler, we’ve included Le Macchiole’s eponymous bottling, Macchiole, which is currently the estate’s only red blend. Originally conceived as the label’s second wine, Macchiole forewent this status beginning in ’03 when it emerged as a more accessible bottling. We’ve gone back to the penultimate bottling of the original here, when Sangiovese was King.

Northern Exposure: Selections from Liguria, Friuli, Alto Adige, Veneto, & Trentino

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 09:00:00 EST

Sometimes a wine is about the vintage, sometimes it’s about the winemaker. In this sampler, however, the wines are all about place. In Northern Exposure, we’ve assembled expressions that are resolutely local in character, so you can experience the terroir of Italy’s North by way of its vine. You’ll find Liguria’s steep seaside vintages shown in a signature Pigato, Friuli’s rolling hills reflected in both a sincere and honest red and a pellucid archetypal white, Trentino Alto-Adige’s alpine vistas illustrated by a pair of unusual and trend-setting reds, and the Veneto epitomized in an extraordinary bottle from a legend. Each of these wines makes a unique statement about the terroir—that ineffable combination of earth, air, and water—where it was born. Even if you don’t get a chance to visit each of the areas represented by this sampler, drinking these wines, you’ll feel as if you did. (read more)

Southern Exposure: Selections from Sicilia, Campania, Sardegna, & Puglia

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 09:00:00 EST

If you’re on the lookout for some of Italy’s most value-oriented and adventurous wines, we’ve got the wine trail to take. Simply head south, where the winemakers of Puglia, Campania, Sardegna, and Sicilia are crafting their wines with artisanal care—and capturing the attention of both critics and wine enthusiasts with the fruits of their labors. The south of Italy often suffers the fate of the middle child: it gets overlooked in the face of its more prominent siblings. Therefore, we’ve assembled this sampler in order to introduce you to the wild beauty of the South’s viniculture. There’s a Sicilian sparkler with classic credentials, an “underground” red that’s the product of aging in amphora, a surprisingly spicy rosé, a model Mastroberardino Taurasi, and two spirited reinterpretations of the South’s most venerable grapes. Whether you’ve long treasured the wines of southern Italy, or you’re just looking for some reds to complement the dog days of summer, you’ll find it in Italy’s south.(read more)

Granbussia: The Millennium Collection

Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:00:00 EST

Aldo Conterno's Millennium Collection brings together three exceptional years of Conterno’s Granbussia—1999, 2000, and 2001—to create an unparalleled offering from the “King of Barolo.”

In addition to making his Granbussia in select vintages—only when both the very best climatic conditions are present and the ripest grapes derive from the sand, shale, and limestone soil—Conterno exercises discretion in the production of large-format offerings. Conterno’s esteem for these three vintages warrants the use of a larger format bottle, as the wines’ longevity will be extended through modified air contact. The Millennium Collection entails two magnum bottles of Granbussia 1999, a jeroboam of 2000 (the equivalent of 6 bottles), and a double magnum of 2001. To add to the rarity, only 900 cases of the Millennium Collection have been packaged. This is truly a special Barolo offering of wines that may just rival and surpass the performances of 1978, 1989, and 1990.

Conterno himself is outspoken about the vintages and deemed the three elite. Perhaps the most powerful and intense of the trio, the 1999 Granbussia boasts a classic, tight Barolo structure with a velvety palate of fruit, tobacco, and minerals. This highly structured wine will profit from generous cellar aging in much the same way the 1978 bottling has and still is. The 2000 vintage, the most forward and opulent of the three, shows immediate approachability. Its palate of lush red fruit, bolstered by spice, beckons for the glass now. However, it’s a siren’s call; as in the case of the 1990 vintage, this wine requires proper cellaring to achieve peak performance. The 2001 Granbussia, a new offering at IWM, appears to be a happy union of the ’99 and the ’00. It’s inviting and provides the signature nose that is Granbussia—a deceivingly candied, sweet fruit note. This characteristic derives from Conterno’s highly conscientious cask regimen, which entails barrel scraping in order to ensure that the wine meets only with clean Slavonian oak. Maturation subsequently continues in stainless steel to emphasize the ripe fruit flavors. Fully balanced, the wine offers flowers, spice, and red berry to balance out its tannic structure. Although beautiful now, these wines would be best after a cellaring period of two or more decades.

Extraordinarily rare, indisputable in quality, and appreciable in value, the Millennium Collection from Aldo Conterno speaks emphatically to the serious wine collector.

Aldo Conterno 2001 Barolo Granbussia Riserva

Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:00:00 EST

No one watches the weather like Piemontese winemakers. When nature cooperates, it extends the possibility for an exceptional wine. This week’s offering of Aldo Conterno’s 2001 Granbussia essentially delivers the best of the best of the best: the best possible growing conditions for the best wine of one of the best producers. In fact, Aldo’s commitment to making wine exclusively from the best harvests means that he’s made his Granbussia a mere eight times between 1971 and 1994. As he chose to forego production from 2002 to 2004, due to Mother Nature's lack of cooperation, the next offering won’t be until 2011.

Going into the millennium, Piemonte was blessed with exceptional growing seasons. Of all of the great years from 1996 to 2001, the most complete vintage was the last; it’s almost as if the previous years were practicing to get it right in 2001. The temperamental, finicky Nebbiolo grape has an exceptionally long growing cycle that places it at the mercy of the weather. The 2001 vintage’s cycle of cool nights and hot, sunny days, a pattern that extended well into September, provided an idyllic climate for the sensitive Nebbiolo to flourish.

As a cuvée (i.e., blend of multiple sites), Granbussia honors the traditional conception of Barolo, as opposed to its cru expression. Granbussia’s predominant source, Romirasco (70%), essentially merges the defining aspects of the wine’s other contributors, Cicala (15%) and Colonnello (15%). This blend became established in 1982, shortly after Conterno acquired Romirasco. Granbussia undergoes maceration in horizontal fermenters, which are gentler on the wine than rotary fermenters (the modernist’s choice). The wine is aged in Slavonian oak, steel cask, and bottle for a period of six years—one full year longer than most Barolos. Situated in Monforte d'Alba, the heart of the Barolo region, Aldo’s “Favot” estate comprises 25 hectares of grapes, the sole source of the estate’s wines.

Along with Giacomo Conterno's Monfortino and Bruno Giacosa's Barolo le Rocche del Falletto, these are the staple riservas of Barolo. The 2001 shows the potential to deliver that strong, classic Barolo structure balanced with velvety berry, exotic spice, earthy leather, and rich tannins. You'll want to hold off opening this stunner for a while, as this wine will be a monument to Barolo.

** Indicates Prearrival

Everyday Aldo Conterno

Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:00:00 EST

It’s been said that “everything happens for a reason,” and the standout from our Aldo Conterno sampler—the 2003 Il Favot—delivers this philosophy in rare form. To say that it’s a tremendous value is an understatement—the ’03 Il Favot is, in essence, a Barolo under the modest disguise of a Langhe Nebbiolo label. While Aldo Conterno came to regret his decision to declassify his 2003 Barolos, their loss was all Il Favot’s gain: the ’03 constitutes a cuvée of the grapes normally designated for all five of the estate’s Barolos. But the story doesn’t end there. Impressed by the quality Il Favot demonstrated in its early stages, Conterno pulled it from barrique (where it is normally matured) and aged it in the large oak casks reserved for his Barolos. In his evaluation, it wasn’t showing like a Barolo—it was a Barolo, and therefore, deserved to be treated as such. It’s unlikely that Il Favot will ever get to be a Barolo again. But as it heads back into barrique, the singular ’03 will continue out its legacy, providing an ageworthy testament to a decision that had truly historic consequences. But, unlike most Barolos, you needn’t put it in your cellar—upon release, the ’03 was more than merely approachable, delivering concentrated, lush fruit that was allowed full expression by the moderate tannin structure. That rich fruit still dominates—and it shows no sign of diminishing any time soon.

Barbera didn’t have Nebbiolo’s troubles in 2003, as the heat endowed some expressions with atypical opulence. The 2004 vintage, however, really allowed the grape to find its true balance, merging ripeness and Barbera’s trademark acidity in perfect proportion. Conterno prefers barrique aging for many of the wines outside his Barolo production, and in ’04, that barrique influence enhanced Conca Tre Pile’s innate richness.

Conterno’s Granbussia may be head of the Conterno house, but Piemonte’s pulse runs throughout the domaine, and every wine know its place—except, apparently, for that 2003 Il Favot….

Wine Collecting Services: DRC to Vega Sicilia

Mon, 28 Jul 2008 14:00:00 EST

IWM SPECIAL OFFERS

Designed specifically for collectors, IWM’s new Special Daily Offers features blue-chip Bordeaux to vintage wines from Ribera del Duero. The 2005 offerings of the revered Domaine de la Romanée-Conti estate constituted last week’s debut Special Daily Offer. We present these unobtainable bottlings for a second week in the company of Spain’s iconic Vega Sicilia. If you would like to receive these offers on a regular basis or view a complimentary online demo of our wine collecting software, please send a request to our Cellar Specialists.

Vega Sicilia �Unico�: Spain's Most Distinguished and Ageworthy Red Vega Sicilia 1972 �Unico�…$581
Vega Sicilia 1973 �Unico�…$465
Vega Sicilia 1974 �Unico�…$546
Vega Sicilia 1976 �Unico�…$679
Vega Sicilia 1983 �Unico�…$779
Vega Sicilia 1985 �Unico�…$714
Vega Sicilia Parcel Offer…$3,764*

Wine Collecting Offer

Fri, 18 Jul 2008

IWM SPECIAL OFFERS
What can you expect from our exclusive offers? Members of our collecting service have access to special offers, that include Blue-Chip Bordeaux to the unobtainable DRC.

Here is a glance at our CURRENT SPECIAL OFFER:

Domaine Romanée-Conti 2005: Burgundy's Most Revered & Sought-After Wine
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Romanée-Conti (1 Magnum)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 La Tâche (OWC) (1 Case [6 Magnums])
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Richebourg (OWC) (1 Case [6 Magnums])
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Romanée-St-Vivant (OWC) (1 Case [6 Magnums])
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Echézeaux (3 Magnums)
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2005 Grands-Echézeaux (3 Magnums)
Domaine Romanée-Conti 26-Magnum Parcel Offer…$Inquire*

*Subject to remaining, prearrival, first come.
Specified bottles contain Original Wooden Case (OWC).

Brunello Education: Understanding Montalcino

Fri, 18 Jul 2008

In the American collector's market there is, perhaps, no other Italian wine that rivals Brunello di Montalcino's stature or allure. The demand it incurs is testified to in the numbers: over 25 percent of total Brunello production is exported to America. But beyond the glory of the cellar you'll find a region of profound, innate complexity whose nuances rival the famed intricacies of Burgundy. In this sampler, we have captured the defining aspects of both the region and the wine that is Brunello. The chosen wines are not just about a producer or style, for each selection comprises a range of attributes that collectively bring you a sense of Brunello's vast range of interpretations that evoke the work of terroir, philosophy, and vintage. Burgundy may have inspired the term that is terroir, but you can't begin to approach Brunello di Montalcino without it. According to the Brunello Consorzio, the region possesses over 24 distinct microclimates, each of which is defined by a distinct amalgam of altitude, soil composition, and weather. Rather than taking each on its own terms, however, it is best to approach the region via a three-part schema—central, north, and south. While each may be further broken down into subzones, this working model provides a substantive and focused orientation to Brunello di Montalcino. In order to bring this complex ground into relief, so to speak, we have provided a map identifying the region's principal zones and the producers represented in our sampler. Access the map by clicking here, and refer to it as you make your way through Montalcino.

The villages of Montalcino, La Croce, and Tavernelle constitute the central portion of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. This area's distinct identity rests in its high altitudes, which precipitate cooling winds and a significant fall-off in temperature from day to night. These influences lengthen the vineyard cycle, producing wines of substantive tannic strength and high acidity that project elegance and perfumed aromatics. Producers such as Biondi-Santi (situated 480 meters+ above sea level) maximize the impact of both high altitude and the area's southern and eastern exposures, which provide for a longer vegetative cycle than that of other zones in Montalcino. Regarded as the patriarch of Brunello, Biondi-Santi continues to be a standard bearer for the designation, and current proprietor Franco Biondi-Santi is a fierce advocate for preserving Brunello's authenticity through a sophisticated and rigorous delineation of the region's subzones. Our tour leads off with Biondi-Santi's Rosso di Montalcino, representing the structured 2004 vintage. This bottling highlights the austerity and leanness of classic Brunello, affording you unparalleled insight into Biondi-Santi's defining philosophy. Il Palazzone offers another consummate representation of the area: the estate's wines carry the central zone's elegance, particularly in the mineral dimension imparted by the soils. Current owner Dick Parsons had admired Il Palazzone's wines before acquiring the estate to fully indulge his passion for Brunello (he was involved, however, in the blending and maturation stages of several vintages prior to his acquisition, including the 1998 featured herein).

The villages of Canalicchio, Pianelli, and Montosoli form the northern zone, which is marked by lower altitudes than those of the central area and a modified Mediterranean climate. This dynamic produces wines that marry ripeness and structure in markedly seamless proportion, integrating the respective attributes of its northern and southern counterparts. The family-owned estate of Canalicchio di Sopra adheres to a predominantly traditional conception of Brunello, a prime aspect of which is cask aging, and is noted for producing ageworthy Brunellos. Its Riserva from the overlooked, but nevertheless exceptional, 1995 vintage is a complex and layered expression exuding tertiary splendor.

The Mediterranean influence is virtually uninhibited here, and it authors a fairly full style of Brunello that is maximized by the relatively sandy soil and lower altitude. It is, however, important to understand that there are fine points of distinction among the three zones comprising the south. The most concentrated wines are produced in the southwest, given this area's low altitudes and the height of the sun. The wines deriving from the southeast and south central area exhibit more finesse. We represent the latter zone through two noted producers, Talenti and Poggio di Sotto, both of whom are situated at higher elevations, a positioning that is reflected in the structural dimension of their wines. The south's propensity for concentration is evident as well, particularly in the ripe vintage of 2000, captured to full effect in Talenti's rendition. Early approachability has always been a hallmark of the Talenti philosophy, and while the wines have moved into a more modern vein in recent vintages, they have retained their structural poise. There are no dark Brunellos in Poggio di Sotto's corner of Montalcino, where founder Piero Palmucci privileges Brunello's traditional production techniques. The '99 emphasizes the vintage's reserve, a perfect context for the prevailing house style. We represent the heralded 2001 Brunello vintage through the Caprili estate, which is situated within proximity to the renowned estates of Case Basse di Soldera and Pieve di Santa Restituta (Angelo Gaja).

Fontodi 2005 Flaccianello

Thu, 10 Jul 2008

While many are either preoccupied with Toscana's 2004 vintage or waiting in anticipation for the region's 2006 releases, we've found one of the most compelling reasons to focus our attention on the vintage between these two years—the 2005 Flaccianello, the Fontodi estate's flagship cru and one of the earliest monovarietal Sangiovese bottlings (1981 vintage debut). Flashback a few months ago to our profile of the 2004 Flaccianello: while many had characterized the '04 as a wine of immediate approachability, we not only found it to be the very antithesis of accessible, but also one of the estate's most cellarworthy expressions to date. It was certainly a wine to be excited about—but not for the prevailing reasons. Ironically, the wine that no one is paying attention to—the 2005—is the one that you want to be drinking right here, right now.

Indeed, Fontodi's proprietor, Giovanni Manetti, regards 2005 as an exceptionally well-integrated and balanced expression that invites current drinking—while you wait, in fact, for that 2004 to come around. And, in Manetti's view, the '04 is one that you want to hold "for a very long time," particularly given its high level of acidity. Indeed, that acidity was an essential element in the 1995 Flaccianello's evolution. According to Manetti, the '95 is currently showing exceptionally well. Indeed, we at IWM couldn't agree more: this is the wine, in essence, that inspired us to do a retrospective of the 1995 vintage (see below). And what of the 1999? Much like the 2005, it offered immense drinkability upon release, yet its generous, even profuse fruit found ample support in Flaccianello's trademark elegance, engaging in a measured dialogue that will only become more articulate and nuanced with age. The '99 is currently exhibiting that mature sensibility, captured in tertiary flavors underlain by those that harken back to the wine's initial flavor spectrum.

Each year has its own persona— an intricate amalgam of vintage, viticulture, and vintner that requires those who claim to know it best to constantly rewrite and modify their analyses and conclusions. We invite you to do your own vertical analysis, and find Flaccianello beyond the critical horizon.

The Overlooked 1995 Toscana Vintage

Thu, 10 Jul 2008

Our 1995 vintage retrospective was inspired by a fortuitous, unplanned encounter with a 1995 Flaccianello. Like many others, we hadn't thought about the vintage in a while—not necessarily because it wasn't good, but more because it didn't call immediate attention to itself in dramatic, look-at-me fashion, as was the case with the 1997. The 1995 vintage is proving itself to be worthy of serious reevaluation, going far beyond its status as an admirable vintage of solid qualities.

The 1995 vintage's coming of age is of no surprise to Fontodi's Manetti. In his reflections on the vintage, Manetti recalls, first and foremost, that it was an extremely unusual year, with the summer presenting abnormally cool conditions. However, September more than compensated for such anomalous weather, delivering a virtually made-to-order Indian summer—the perfect context for vine ripening. Thus, those who exercised patience during the fortuitous change of season, waiting until the end of October to harvest, turned out exceptional wines—fresh, refined, and high in acidity. This last element played an integral role in the ageworthiness achieved by the wines of '95.

In addition to the 1995 Flaccianello, we have included Fontodi's fellow Chianti Classico producer and Franco Bernabei client, Fèlsina. Like Fontodi, Fèlsina is esteemed for its vintage consistency—a record largely attributed to the discriminating practices of Giuseppe Mazzocolin (director of the estate) and Bernabei—and recognized as establishing a paradigm for Sangiovese. Fèlsina's Rancìa bottling is one of the most highly regarded expressions of Chianti Classico and Fontalloro, the estate's monovarietal Sangiovese, continues to be priced far below its equals in the Super-Tuscan class. Fontalloro also tends to be more subtle than most Super-Tuscans, revealing itself gradually, almost circumspectly, over a period of several years. We conclude our case for Toscana '95 with an essential contribution from Montalcino, the normale and riserva bottlings of the family-owned Canalicchio di Sopra. Known for safeguarding Brunello's traditional character, in recent years the estate has selectively incorporated modern practices, enabling it to retain its primary stylistic orientation. Its efforts from '95 are in a rewarding phase of maturity, displaying all the grace, finesse, and nobility of a wine in the height of its development.

The overlooked 1995 vintage's time has come. Throughout the last decade, it has quietly yet steadily emerged as a profound arbiter of ageworthiness, which we've captured in this dedicated sampler. The acclaimed 1997 vintage cannot really say the same for itself; while an unparalleled source of early approachability, it's shown some inconsistencies in the ageability department. The wines of '95 didn't offer '97's easy gratification, but now they're the ones delivering some serious pleasures….

Gravner 2002 Breg Anfora

Fri, 05 Jul 2008

It is the most controversial and misunderstood wine that we have carried in the past three years. More importantly, though, Gravner's Breg Anfora has also been the most inspirational, earning Gravner a dedicated chapter in Sergio's new memoir, Passion on the Vine. While we've previously offered the 2002 and 2003 Ribolla Anfora, this marks our debut offering of the 2002 Breg Anfora—Gravner's second pure-amphora (Italian variant: anfora) interpretation of his signature white blend. A sense of mastery is already apparent in this early-stage rendition of the amphora technique (wherein the wine's maceration and aging is conducted in large terracotta vessels that Gravner lines with beeswax and buries in the earth for a seven-month period), indicating his refined grasp of a technique that predates Christ. Being Gravner, he will only continue to further evolve in this antediluvian quest. However, it is important to note that Breg Anfora won't be part of this oeuvre forever; as of 2010, Gravner will be working exclusively with Ribolla Gialla—the Friulian grape whose career he restored—and the rare Pignolo, which some contend is actually Sangiovese Grosso, the clone used in Toscana's Brunello di Montalcino.

We at IWM have educated and opened many to this provocative wine. That said, it remains a wine that people still don't fully understand. While some have claimed that Gravner's wines are fragile and do not respond well either to decanting or time in the glass, time after time we have found that the exact opposite is true. A wine like Breg defies everything you think you know about a white wine. It drinks, as we've always contended, like a red. Indeed, tasters evaluating it under blind conditions have identified it as such. It does not lose composure when poured; rather, it alters in subtly beguiling ways, with each encounter revealing distinct nuances and requiring you to wholly reorient yourself to the wine at hand. And we're not talking about just a few hours here. Try 2, 4, 8—even 24—Breg '02 didn't cease changing: it evolved and intensified, exhibiting a behavior that was totally unclassifiable and conducting the virtual antithesis of a linear evolution. Its course is dynamic, both challenging and thrilling in sheer unpredictability. It is a self-determining wine, providing a tangible reflection of Gravner's noninterventionist policies.

Giuseppe Quintarelli: The Rare, the First, the Quintessential

Sat, 28 Jun 2008

Giuseppe Quintarelli is the Veneto's most significant producer, renowned for his mythical and cellar-worthy Amarone, Recioto, and Alzero. But there's more to Italy's quintessential artisan than these collector staples. This week's sampler is dedicated to exploring a more complete range of Quintarelli's expression—from his little known white to his "Baby Amarones"—affording devoted followers the opportunity to experience the layers of Quintarelli's depth on a more frequent basis.

The highlight of this package is undoubtedly the rare Rosso del Bepi, which has been produced in just three vintages—1994, '96, and '99. Often referred to as "Quintarelli Amarone at half the price" by insiders, it is, in fact, technically an Amarone, declassified only because it failed to satisfy Quintarelli's exacting standards. As such, the wine invariably surpasses most Amarones released in an exceptional vintage, truly making it a gem to be discovered. With an average case production of just six hundred, allocations are extremely minute. Our allotment of the '99 is now down to its final bottles—its presence here is representative of what remains on the market. This same level of craftsmanship is attained in Giuseppe's Valpolicella Superiore and Ca' del Merlo bottlings, the latter of which is a single-vineyard expression. While less concentrated and opulent than the Rosso del Bepi, these wines possess the characteristics necessary to occupy the "Baby Amarone" class. Both are vinified in the ripasso method, which entails passing a straight Valpolicella through the lees of an Amarone in order to enhance the wine's texture, complexity, and range of flavors (which include classic notes of dried fruits and spice).

The final two wines offer even greater approachability, while maintaining Quintarelli's signature touch. His Primofiore (meaning "first press") is an easygoing red that offers an explosion of juicy, young fruit. In addition to the indigenous Veneto grapes, you will find some of Cabernet Franc's (Alzero's main grape) personality in this wine. Last, but not least, there's the crowd-pleasing white, Bianco Secco. This artful blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (the last of which is believed to be a clone of Tai [formerly known as Tocai Friulano]) offers floral, honey, and apricot notes. So leave the auction wines for another day: there are other wines to be experienced that offer the soul of Quintarelli's craft.

Dal Forno 2002 Amarone della Valpolicella

Sat, 28 Jun 2008

If Dal Forno's Valpolicella is essentially an Amarone, then what does that make his Amarone? Good question. It's unlikely that Dal Forno himself would be able to tell you. See, Dal Forno has never really made Amarone by the books or by anything, for that matter, that inherently limits what the wine might be. Quintarelli showed him what the wine could be, but Dal Forno showed Quintarelli and the world something else altogether, reinterpreting Amarone within a bold, unapologetically modern context to produce a hedonistic, heady, provocative style. It's a wine derived from its very antithesis—a fanatical, unrelenting, and nearly ascetic-minded effort that has created Amarone's ultimate expression.

Dal Forno's reinvention was radical from the start. In 1990, he dispensed with Slavonian oak, the traditional vessel for aging Amarone, and brought in French oak barrique. He then experimented with the passito method (aka, appassimento, drying of the grapes) and different aging regimens, releasing the wines only after five years' maturation in various combinations of barrique and bottle aging. He was also one of the first to reject the somewhat bland Molinara grape—one of Amarone's traditional constituents—finding an attractive replacement in Oseleta, which enhanced the wine's cosmetic (intensifying color) and structural (heightening acidity) expressions.

Because he understood that the success of the drying process was critical to the quality of the wine, Dal Forno brought in an air circulation system to ensure the grapes' well being over a 90-day drying period. Thus, when a troublesome vintage such as '02 occurs, there's not much for a vintner like Dal Forno to worry about. You see, with a wine like Amarone, half the battle is won in that drying room, where producers must endeavor to maintain stability. As Dal Forno's discriminating selection process admits only the highest quality grapes into that room, '02 emerged in quintessential Dal Forno form, which is to say, answering to Dal Forno first and acknowledging the vintage only to its advantage and ours—in gloriously early accessibility.

Tenuta San Guido 2005 Sassicaia

Fri, 20 Jun 2008

Coming off a vintage like '04 was particularly challenging for Sassicaia. After all, it wasn't just any vintage: We put it on the short list of Sassicaia benchmarks that includes 1985, 1988, and 1990. In the opinion of San Guido's managing director, Sebastiano Rosa, 2005 operates well in the realm of Sassicaia's most revered vintages. However, it occupies this space on its own, no less compelling terms. At its core, the '05 is not the intensely structured interpretation of '01, '04, or the upcoming '06. Even at this early stage, 2005 offers a Sassicaia that privileges proportion over an opaque, palpable restraint and displays a finely wrought elegance that complements its vivacious, forward temperament. While these components will work together in a dynamic dialogue over the course of '05's maturation, the more disciplined vintages will likely take a linear-driven course, gradually opening as their tightly wrought structures relent.

As in the case of Ornellaia, Sassicaia met those heavy September rains unflinchingly—not merely weathering the storm, but, according to Rosa, deriving some much needed hydration. Moreover, under the direction of Rosa, the estate pursued an intense and highly discriminating process of selection to maximize the inherent integrity of its intensive parcel-by-parcel harvesting process.

In '05, this legendary Cabernet Sauvignon–Cabernet Franc blend, sourced from the vineyards of Castiglioncello, Doccino, Quercione, San Martino, Mandrioli, Sassicaia, and Aianova (all of which are situated on hilly slopes in a subzone of Bolgheri), provides a sensitive, expressive vintage reading that takes it into a slightly more concentrated realm than it is wont to inhabit, thereby truly signifying its Super-Tuscan credentials. But it still somehow manages to be all Sassicaia in its signature posture—ever articulate and ever the incomparable legend.

Tenuta San Guido 2006 Guidalberto

Sat, 20 Jun 2008

Guidalberto—the second wine of Sassicaia—has changed, and 2006 marks its most Sassicaia-inspired performance to date. It began to refashion itself in the '05 vintage, reducing Sangiovese's contribution and increasing Cabernet Sauvignon's (Cabernet Sauvignon [55%], Merlot [40%], and Sangiovese [5%]). In so doing, it more closely reflected Sassicaia's composition, particularly as the Cabernet was derived from Sassicaia's intended allotment. This alteration effectually heralded its 2006 rendition, in which it delivers its debut performance as a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend (60/40), leaving behind its short, yet distinguished past with Sangiovese and letting Sassicaia be its guide.

The connection between the two is a palpable one. While Guidalberto holds to one of its defining ideals—namely, accessibility upon release—its characteristic generosity is tempered in '06, endowing it with an air of refinement. That polish is immediately evident on the layered nose of red currant, cherry, dried fruit, and earth, which carries over onto a medium-bodied palate of quiet intensity, articulated most prominently in its minerality and deeply writ herbal component. While not quite introspective, it nonetheless seems to be seriously rethinking its place in the San Guido hierarchy, seeking to identify more closely with that benchmark and leave Le Difese, the third wine, to do the work of the estate's "everyday" wine, while remaining rather self-effacing in its consummate value.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 2005 Ornellaia

Fri, 20 Jun 2008

Lodovico Antinori's renowned contribution to the early Super-Tuscan movement wasn't modeled on its predecessors, Sassicaia or Tignanello. Rather, the brother of Piero Antinori (creator of Tignanello) and cousin of Mario Incisa della Rocchetta went outside Italy to draw upon luminaries such as André Tchelistcheff, one of the fathers of California Cabernet, as well as Bordeaux's leading enologist, Michel Rolland. This collaboration resulted in a classic Bordeaux-style blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, with Petit Verdot being added in the '03 vintage) that has become one of the most formidable monuments of the Super-Tuscan class.

So, did Ornellaia go all out for its 20th Anniversary? We sure think it did, particularly as the textbook vintage of '04 didn't make things easy on the wine. Connoiseurs are still recounting '04's merits: there are several, to be sure. But it's in this very perfection that the rub lies, so to speak. While we're not taking anything away from '04, it made things pretty effortless for high-caliber estates like Ornellaia. The '05 vintage stirred things up a bit, keeping temperatures cooler than normal and compromising the harvest with repeated episodes of rain. Ornellaia took it all in stride, however; in fact, in the opinion of Ornellaia's Agronomist, Leonardo Raspini, the 2005 portfolio is qualitatively superior to that of the '04, as heightened vigilance was exercised in viticultural operations, including a particularly discriminating process of selection. The estate even turned those showers to its advantage: as '05 was cooler than usual, Ornellaia used the "rain delay" to ensure that the grapes achieved a desirable stage of ripeness.

You really couldn't have asked for a better follow-up to the '04, which headed straight for the cellar upon release. This '05 certainly belongs there for the immediate interim as well, but it's already making a move for the door in its forward-minded display of currant and blackberry fruit, underscored by spices and tar. It stops before that door, though, with perfect composure, waiting to make its elegant entrance upon your pleasure.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 2005 Le Serre Nuove

Fri, 20 Jun 2008

If you're a second wine, you can't get much closer to the estate's flagship than Le Serre Nuove does to Ornellaia. In fact, you could say that Serre Nuove is more of a direct spin-off, given that its constituents are literally sourced from Ornellaia's final blending stage. Unlike many second labels, Serre Nuove isn't comprised of barriques that didn't make the first cut. There's a philosophy at work here that's every bit as important as Ornellaia's, taking the wine beyond the generic second label status and endowing it with an identity. And just who is Serre Nuove? What's most apparent, perhaps, is its forward, generous character, a reflection of the significant percentage of young vines that figure in the blend. However, there's far more to this wine than youthful vim and vigor. During the selection process, care is taken to complement that exuberance with the hallmark structure of Ornellaia's terroir, endowing it with the ability to age.

Make no mistake—the 2005 Serre Nuove (50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot) is certainly a cellar-worthy production, but so fine is the balance it achieves, so exacting the sense of proportion, that no one element—varietal or structural—asserts its presence or stages a retreat from the whole. Thus, it's hard to make an argument for putting away a wine that's so confident, so assured, so integrated that it seems to being going after benchmark status in the label's career. It may be second, but it's got the attitude of a first.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 2006 Le Volte

Fri, 20 Jun 2008

Le Volte, the third wine of Ornellaia, is the estate's annual exercise in gratification—the indulgent one that generally provides a license to not only "drink it now" but to "drink it everyday," given its modest, self-effacing cost. In fact, Le Volte is one of the most reliable values in the Super-Tuscan class, affording regular access to Bolgheri's hallowed ground. Indeed, unlike Serre Nuove, Le Volte is about Toscana first, Ornellaia second. As such, it doesn't follow the Bordeaux paradigm, but chooses to provide a powerful conduit for Toscana's Sangiovese, accentuated by Ornellaia's Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Ornellaia goes offsite for Le Volte, sourcing Sangiovese from several producers in the form of a finished wine, with the objective of capturing Toscana's range of terroir expression in Bolgheri. The blended wine is aged for approximately ten months in two- to four-year old French oak casks that boast a pretty significant history, having previously carried the estate's landmark wines, Ornellaia and Masseto, during their refinement period. Perhaps this "rite of passage" accounts for why the '06 Le Volte (52% Sangiovese, 36% Merlot, and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon) seems to have forgotten that it's the third wine in the Ornellaia hierarchy. It certainly doesn't drink like a third—it has no business, really, evoking such cavalier grandeur in its overt nose and dramatic palate, which is drawn back from the edge of hyperripeness with a forcible tannic grip and rustic herbal notes. It's working itself out, to be sure, but you can't help but be pulled in now by its bold and almost self-absorbed revelation.

Giacomo Conterno 2001 Barolo Monfortino Riserva

Sat, 05 Jun 2008

There's a lot going on in the collector's market: expectations are high for 2004 Barolo and Brunello; speculations are already being made for Toscana and Piemonte 2007; and Bordeaux and Burgundy from the 2005 vintage have sent the futures market into a frenzy. In short, the wine auction market continues to outperform most financial investments. The 2005 vintages of Ch�teau Margaux and Ch�teau Lafite-Rothschild, for example, are easily garnering $1,500 a bottle, despite the fact that each is part of a 20,000-plus case production. Rather than looking forward and getting caught up in the media activity, we are looking back to Piemonte's structured vintage of 2001 and the artisanal craftsmanship of that vintage's most important release, Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva.

Barolo Monfortino is crafted exclusively in vintages of the highest caliber. Between the years of 1959 and 2001, it has made only 23 out of a possible 42 appearances, averaging fewer than 600 cases in each vintage. Regarded as the most significant Barolo on the collector's market, Monfortino undergoes longer maceration (an average of 35 days, in contrast to the typical 14-day provision) and maturation periods than those of any other Barolo. While it typically sees six or seven years in Slavonian oak (DOCG regulations require only two years), certain vintages have matured for ten years in oak.

The 2001 vintage marks the grand finale to the five-year vintage streak that graced the Langhe Hills. A wine of superior structure and ethereal qualities, Monfortino is the most tannic and longest-lived of all Piemonte's Barolos. Favorable weather in 2001 produced wines of impeccable structure and powerful aromatics. Conterno's '01 Monfortino is in keeping with this profile, displaying a significant backbone and substantive tannins. While the fruit appears prominently, the wine's maturation has modified its extravagance, offering enhanced complexity and an earthy quality.

Giacomo Conterno 2004 Barolo Cascina Francia

Sat, 05 Jun 2008

The distinction between Monfortino and Cascina Francia, the second Barolo from the Giacomo Conterno estate, is not rooted in the vineyard, but rather, in the vinification process, with the main differences deriving from the length of the maceration and maturation periods. While Cascina Francia's maceration period is three to four weeks, the Monfortino's may extend over a five-week period. Moreover, in the case of the latter, there is no attempt made to control temperature—a weighty risk that carries the potential of sacrificing the entire production.

Cascina Francia represents classic Barolo, an expression that presents "good body, alcohol, and tannins, plus that certain something that gives longevity"—elements that represent the pillars of a noble wine in the philosophy of Giacomo Conterno. The maturation period typically see four years of oak aging; good vintages yield only 1,500 cases. The '04 release showcases exquisite balance and offers Cascina Francia's trademark structure and complexity, along with ample fruit. Given this provision, the wine will benefit from cellar maturation.

Giacomo Conterno 2006 Barbera Cascina Francia

Sat, 05 Jun 2008

Over the years, Giacomo Conterno's Barbera has been the fastest selling in the category. It is simply the purest, most rustic expression of the varietal available. This has been a focus of Giovanni's son Roberto, who directs production, upholding the practices that define Giacomo Conterno's philosophy. In fact, he has instituted only minor changes (replacing Dolcetto and Fresia vines with Nebbiolo and Barbera, and extending the aging period for Barbera) that neither modify nor alter the stylistic paradigm.

Although many contemporary productions of Barbera deliver a high level of fruit extraction and display significant oak influence, Conterno's bottlings eschew such modern extremities. Conterno privileges Barbera's trademark acidity, a feature that renders it the classic companion to food.

Mastroberardino 2003 Taurasi Radici

Sat, 05 Jun 2008

Mastroberardino's 1968 Taurasi Riserva is the estate's most historically significant bottling and one of Italy's landmark wines. In 1980, the historic winery and cellars were damaged by an earthquake, though restoration efforts precipitated a complete renovation of the winery. This tumultuous event also inspired the family to formally recognize the extent of its diligent research by sourcing its Taurasi bottling exclusively from the 100-acre Mirabella site. The family rechristened the wine Taurasi Radici Riserva for its 1986 debut, using the term Radici ("roots") to signify its intimate connection to the region and its varietals.

The normale version of Taurasi Radici is aged in a combination of Slavonian oak and barrique for approximately two years. Thereafter, it is refined in bottle for a minimum period of one year. Radici characteristically offers a pronounced aroma marked by the distinct fragrance of violets. The demonstrative palate responds to this evocative femininity with deeply drawn dark fruit and licorice.

Mastroberardino 2001 Naturalis Historia

Sat, 05 Jun 2008

Serving as the flagship of the Irpinia terroir, Naturalis Historia is the culminating effort of an intense four-decade research initiative Mastroberardino commenced in the 1960s, an effort that was dedicated to maximizing the qualitative potential of its premier sites. Derived from 30-year-old vines from Mirabella, a single-vineyard site, this Aligianico–Piedirosso blend aged for 18 months in barrique, followed by refinement in bottle for a period of 12 months. The grapes utilized are typically some of the last to be harvested in the area, remaining on the vine until late October or early November. The wine's name pays tribute to Pliny's eponymous work, which delineates the popular grapes and viticultural techniques of his time. (The wine's varietal composition changed in 2003, rendering it a pure-varietal Aglianico.)

Mastroberardino 2002 Villa dei Misteri

Sat, 05 Jun 2008

With a case production of a mere 140, this extremely rare offering may just be the most difficult to find of the South's collectible wines. But that is only half the story. In 1996, as part of an effort to reintroduce viticulture in Pompeii, The Soprintendenza Archeologica of Pompeii and Italy's president authorized Mastroberardino to carry out research that involved genetic plant material from 2,000-year-old vines discovered during excavations of the ancient city. The site of this experiment was a 2.5-acre plot utilized for cultivation at the time of Vesuvius' eruption in 79 A.D.. An analysis of the soil and microclimatic features identified two grapes that were best suited to the terroir, Piedirosso and Sciascinoso (the latter of which is often referred to as Olivella). In recognition of the promise each displayed, a blend of the two entitled Villa dei Misteri was conceived, receiving its debut in the 2001 vintage. Aged in barrique for 12 months, followed by six months' refinement in bottle, this unique expression (90% Piedirosso/10% Sciascinoso) offers intense aromas of red fruit and spice. On the palate, the wine is perfectly balanced and concentrated, possessing elegant and well-rounded tannins.

Querciabella Chianti Classico

Wed, 14 May 2008

Before we get to that Camartina, though, we've got to take a moment for the wine that started Querciabella's story—its Chianti Classico, one of the region's finest expressions and most consistent performers with respect to both quality and typicity. We're singling out the 2000 simply for the fact that it's peaked (a.k.a. it's in the zone), and we're fortunate enough to experience just what that means in a ripe year like 2000. For starters, Sangiovese's trademark acidity has toned down quite a bit here, allowing a copious amount of lush red fruit to emerge. But it goes beyond such youthful pleasures, signifying the age that it brings to the table in a savory, smoky meatiness. In essence, these distinct elements have integrated into a harmonious composition that will play the consummate hit single at your next party. That's why we're bringing out the 5-liter bottle here. It's already had a few successful engagements at client parties that we've heard about, and it's ready to be your ultimate crowd pleaser, the toast to beat in '08….

Camartina Vintages '82-'00

Wed, 14 May 2008

Camartina is one of Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis' numerous legends. What makes it stand out on that high-profile list, which includes Tignanello, Solaia, and Sammarco? Simply put, consummate value. Like the three other wines mentioned, Camartina is irresistibly accessible upon release, yet promises equally riveting rewards if cellared and experienced over time. It's also one of the original Super-Tuscans, debuting on the market in 1981, right behind Solaia (1979) and Sammarco (1980). Moreover, Camartina shares a special connection with Sammarco, as both are artisanal, biodynamic productions of the Chianti Classico zone. If you look at the numbers, though, Camartina's on its own. An '82 Tig will run you $240. An '86 Solaia comes in at $269, while an '86 Sammarco is roughly $180. The same vintages of Camartina are priced at $79 and $65, respectively, far below what you'd expect these complex and articulate ambassadors of the past to be. The '82 strikes a particularly refined pose, enigmatically choosing to go punt-less. It seems to say, if you will, that all of that pontificating about the punt's uses (it steadies the bottle, captures sediment, etc.) is sheer rubbish. No other wine of such class and pedigree enables you to encounter the past and present in tandem at such a modest, unassuming cost.

This is your vertical to discover, of course, but here's some brief reflections on our one-on-one with Camartina: The '82 has aged in a timeless manner, presenting a poised and refined structure that elicits admiration on its own merits, but becomes wholly mesmerizing when presented as the striking complement to a palate of dried fruit and an herbal finish. With time in the glass, an unexpected caramelized quality on the nose emerges, endowing it with a wholly unexpected and thrilling suggestion of Port.

The '86 recalls its youthful irreverence in a feral and sauvage nose, a wild impression that settles down on the palate in notes of dried fruit and dried herbs that are not quite as prominent as those of the '82. Both hold glimpses of that '91, which is clearly planning on doing Camartina proud for another decade at least, though it's likely to seriously entertain another ten-year run. It's a mature beauty that has replaced all of youth's affected allure with a deeply writ understanding of what it has to offer, projected on a layered palate of olive, tar, and earth that fits comfortably into a structure attuned to its every nuance. Both the '99 and the '00 offer all the allure of the young Camartina's rich fruit, yet the proximity between them provides a comparative “aside” from the main event, contrasting the '99 vintage's elegant structure with '00's bountiful fruit.

Now, the glass is on your side of the vertical. Enjoy the journey….

Querciabella 1998 Bat�r

Wed, 14 May 2008

Can a Burghound ever find bliss with a Tuscan white? Rarely can one answer affirmatively, but Querciabella makes such a seemingly fantastic match possible with Batàr, a power white comprising Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc that effectively established Toscana's ability to not only deliver a high-caliber white, but one that offered substantive ageability. A benchmark of flair and finesse, Batàr gives Toscana an auspicious place among legendary whites—a genre no one thought it belonged in.

In addition to his penchant for Cristal champagne,Querciabella's Guiseppe Castiglioni nursed a passion for white Burgundy, particularly certain of the Montrachet crus. Despite the lack of precedent for a high-level Tuscan white, Castiglioni set out to evoke his beloved Burgundy aesthetic. He started off with circumspection, testing out the terroir with Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio in an 80/20 blend, respectively, named Bâtard-Pinot. Having got what he wanted from this early blend, Castiglioni was ready to move on, reducing Blanc's contribution and dropping Grigio altogether to make way for the debut of Chardonnay, complemented by an abbreviated and highly suggestive new name—Bâtard. Wary of the opposition that this provocative statement might incur, Castiglioni and his son, Sebastiano, soon compromised, engaging in a clever homophonic exercise that involved exchanging Bâtard for Batàr, while retaining the former's pronunciation.

Although the blend has continued to reflect the 1992 split (50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Blanc), its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced. This modified approach (50% new oak and 50% one-year-old oak) brought Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype, which it had previously only flirted with in its rather overt mannerisms. Indeed, this formerly lavish/flamboyant sort has become a model of reticence and incipient pleasure. Upon release, it often shuts down, seemingly preparing itself for a lengthy and complex evolution. The 1998 Batàr has worked through this slow and nuanced development, showing itself in many rewarding phases over the last few years, each of which was but a preface to its ultimate destination, where it is currently resides. It's a place where a Burghound would love to be….